Motor Oil is Motor Oil

[AXE]

There you have it........again!

 

[Grinks22]

Waiting for the Amsoil police to come out like the picture police do. Good and interesting video.

 

[SGRACING]

Science is a wonderful thing..
Yep all are quite similar!
But Royal Purple did make slitly more power..
I use only signature oils on the Dyno for increased power and it means less wear.
Another thing is replication of real world conditions such as oil temp.
I start by heating the oil to 300 deg. Before first pull
Most brands can't handle hi oil temps.
So considering the 6.2 ltr GM is a performance engine and gets worked hard I personally would consider spending the extra nickel to know it will perform under any load or condition.
And that's my take...!

 

[AXE]

Science is a wonderful thing..
Yep all are quite similar!
But Royal Purple did make slitly more power..
I use only signature oils on the Dyno for increased power and it means less wear.
Another thing is replication of real world conditions such as oil temp.
I start by heating the oil to 300 deg. Before first pull
Most brands can't handle hi oil temps.
So considering the 6.2 ltr GM is a performance engine and gets worked hard I personally would consider spending the extra nickel to know it will perform under any load or condition.
And that's my take...!

Project Farm always heats oils in his testing and weighs them afterwards to see how much evaporation there is. It's interesting to see them change color and lose volume at high temps. That's also why I think more frequent oil changes can help in higher performance motors.

 

[AXE]

He's another one and this discusses the performance of signature oils in high performance motors. He does state it's not good for everyday motors though!

 

[Byrds8]

I figure as long as I am buying quality oil and change it regularly (Pennzoil Plat in my case), I should be good. I generally change the oil at 20-25% life left. When I first got the truck, I thought someone was wrong with it when the wife said the oil smelled like fuel. Since it wasnt mine new, It was concerning til I looked it up and found out its normal. Another good reason to change it earlier than recommended.

 

[wutang61]

I do enjoy Amsoil for the more boutique offerings. I use the shit out of the ISO 100 compressor oil for my air compressor and power washer.

RP makes a ND synthetic as well but when it’s tinted purple, it’s hard to take a visual of contaminants.

 

[KLA]

I usually use Valvoline Full Synthetic. Change regularly at around 4k-5k miles. Is this ok for the 6.2L V8? Don't drive it too hard. Mostly highway miles to and from work.

 

[securityguy]

My 2 cents...some folks WAY over hype the topic of oil. You can use Amsoil, RP, Walmart, PP, etc. and as long as you change your oil when you should (for me it's every 5K miles regardless of what the OLM states) you will be just fine. I can assure you that your engine will not last any longer using Amsoil or RP than it will with Walmart, NAPA, PP, Mobile1, etc. If it makes you feel better using a high priced oil, go for it...not my money

 

[securityguy]

I figure as long as I am buying quality oil and change it regularly (Pennzoil Plat in my case), I should be good. I generally change the oil at 20-25% life left. When I first got the truck, I thought someone was wrong with it when the wife said the oil smelled like fuel. Since it wasnt mine new, It was concerning til I looked it up and found out its normal. Another good reason to change it earlier than recommended.

100%...you're a very smart Byrd!

 

[AXE]

I usually use Valvoline Full Synthetic. Change regularly at around 4k-5k miles. Is this ok for the 6.2L V8? Don't drive it too hard. Mostly highway miles to and from work.

My oil analysis on my wife's Tahoe 6.2L at 5000 miles pretty similar to my 6.2L at 3000-3500. Only thing I noticed was that it would be darker color, which means its been affected a little more by heat and contamination on the last 1500 miles. She doesn't drive as hard as I do. 5000 is probably fine for average users.

 

[KLA]

My oil analysis on my wife's Tahoe 6.2L at 5000 miles pretty similar to my 6.2L at 3000-3500. Only thing I noticed was that it would be darker color. She doesn't drive as hard as I do. 5000 is probably fine for average users.

Thanks @AXE

 

[GoHack]

With the turbo's now-a-days, it's especially important to go w/FULL synthetic oil, not only because of the high temperatures that they run at, but the rpm's that they spin at, which is well over 100K rpm's.
To be especially careful before shutting your engine off, when driving it at high speeds on the highway, or revving the engine up, and then shutting them down immediately. In either case, you want to let the engine idle a bit, so the turbo slows down, together w/getting some cooler oil into the bearings, before shutting it down. Myself, what ever speed I drive at, I let my engine idle a little before shutting it down.

Those turbos are especially expensive to replace, so treat them w/care.

Finally, you don't want to use some cheap off the self oil filter, especially when you spend the money on good oil.

 

[securityguy]

With the turbo's now-a-days, it's especially important to go w/FULL synthetic oil, not only because of the high temperatures that they run at, but the rpm's that they spin at, which is well over 10K rpm's.
To be especially careful before shutting your engine off, when driving it at high speeds on the highway, or revving the engine up, and then shutting them down immediately. In either case, you want to let the engine idle a bit, so the turbo slows down, together w/getting some cooler oil into the bearings, before shutting it down. Myself, what ever speed I drive at, I let my engine idle a little before shutting it down.

Don't disagree related to the turbo issue you raised. I always use FULL SYN regardless of engine type in all of my vehicles. Not a fan of DINO or BLENDS. Since the 6.2 has no turbo, there really isn't anything you need to do that's "special"...just drive like you stole it and shut the motor down as soon as you park...no waiting time needed.

 

[AXE]

Until you run the oil and do the oil analysis, it's all just arm waving. There is no replacement for data.

Very few people in this forum have ever posted an oil sample results, so generally I make the assumption they wouldn't know a pissing head from their sister's titty.

Get that little turd spooled up for a few thousand miles, pull a sample, run an oil analysis, then do it again at 5000 miles and post the results.

 

[GoHack]

Until you run the oil and do the oil analysis, it's all just arm waving. There is no replacement for data.

Very few people in this forum have ever posted an oil sample results, so generally I make the assumption they wouldn't know a pissing head from their sister's titty.

Get that little turd spooled up for a few thousand miles, pull a sample, run an oil analysis, then do it again at 5000 miles and post the results.

Yes, but there's been more than enough oil analysis done out there, like on "Bob is the Oil Guy" website, that it gives you a good idea of what's good vs. bad.
As I mentioned, using Full Synthetic is especially important when it comes to the turbo, due to both the temperatures that it runs at, as well as the rpm's that it spins at.
Then of course there are your poorer quality oils even there, vs. the best when it comes to Full Synthetic, before it breaks down.

Also too, I've noticed that people will spend the money on very good oil, but skimp on the oil filter.

I talked w/enough mechanics over the years, seen cut-a-ways, and read enough articles, to never use Fram, especially their cheapest orange one, where the filter material inside has glued on cardboard ends. Over the years that filter has been know to disintegrate in the engine, leaving one hell of a mess.
Your best bet is to go at the very least, w/an OEM one, with there being many other better ones out there, like NAPA's (Wix), Wix, Purolator, Mobil 1, Amsoil, and most are not really that much more expensive than a cheap Fram.
Also too, many of the newer filters now-a-days are designed to work w/Full Synthetic oil, w/much better quality filtering media, like the Wix XP and NAPA Platinum, which sadly, isn't offered anymore by NAPA.

I look at things this way, our vehicles are getting more and more expensive, w/less and less of us being able to afford one now-a-days, so when you do get a new one, threat it like it's going to be your very last one, because it just in fact may be.
Also too, as I see it, you treat it good, it'll treat you good w/less problems.
Over the years, I seen some horror cases, as well as articles where people neglected their vehicle maintenance, including, sadly, my very own sister, who would rent her cars, and never took care of them, including never changing the oil. She simply added oil when the light came on.

 

[securityguy]

Yes, but there's been more than enough oil analysis done out there, like on "Bob is the Oil Guy" website, that it gives you a good idea of what's good vs. bad.
As I mentioned, using Full Synthetic is especially important when it comes to the turbo, due to both the temperatures that it runs at, as well as the rpm's that it spins at.
Then of course there are your poorer quality oils even there, vs. the best when it comes to Full Synthetic, before it breaks down.

Also too, I've noticed that people will spend the money on very good oil, but skimp on the oil filter.

I talked w/enough mechanics over the years, seen cut-a-ways, and read enough articles, to never use Fram, especially their cheapest orange one, where the filter material inside has glued on cardboard ends. Over the years that filter has been know to disintegrate in the engine, leaving one hell of a mess.
Your best bet is to go at the very lest, w/an OEM one, with there being many other better ones out there, like NAPA's (Wix), Wix, Purolator, Mobil 1, Amsoil, and most are not really that much more expensive than a cheap Fram.
Also too, many of the newer filters now-a-days are designed to work w/Full Synthetic oil, w/much better quality filtering media, like the Wix XP and NAPA Platinum, which sadly, isn't offered anymore by NAPA.

I look at things this way, our vehicles are getting more and more expensive, w/less and less of us being able to afford one now-a-days, so when you do get a new one, threat it like it's going to be your very last one, because it just in fact may be.
Also too, as I see it, you treat it good, it'll treat you good w/less problems.
Over the years, I seen some horror cases, as well as articles where people neglected their vehicle maintenance, including, sadly, my very own sister, who would rent her cars, and never took care of them, including never changing the oil. She simply added oil when the light came on.

Very well said and I agree with you 100%

 

[AXE]

You can run Walmart Supertech oil and filters and get the same results. Cause it's all the same specs and gets bottled at the same facility. The filters are made very well! Just do the testing and see.

 

[GoHack]

You can run Walmart Supertech oil and filters and get the same results. Cause it's all the same specs and gets bottled at the same facility. The filters are made very well! Just do the testing and see.

I don't have to.
Just go to "Bob is the Oil Guy" website, where many have already done the testing.

There's no comparison between what a cracked mineral based oil is, aka Group III, like Castro, Supertech, and many others, and say an oil like AMSOIL, a Group IV Polyalphaolefins (PAOs) synthetic base oil.

PAOs have the following characteristics that make them well-suited for lubricants:
Uniform molecular structure for low friction and high shear stability
- Excellent oxidation resistance at high temperatures
- Very low pour points for cold temperature pumpability
- Naturally high viscosity index, requiring fewer viscosity modifiers

As for oil filters, there are the Fram's consisting of a filtering medium, w/glued on ends. which has a history of disintegrating in engines.
Then there's the OEM's, which are at the very least, the ones that one should use.
Then finally the best designed for using Full Synthetic oil, such as Wix XP, Mobil 1, Purolator, Amsoil, to name some.

I'm not going to argue w/you on this subject matter.
Use what you are happy with, just as I do.

If it wasn't for my turbo, I'd probably be using Pennzoil Platinum, which I've used on past Jeeps.

 

[Duramax Joe]

Alittle off subject but the company that was making the blue ac delco filters was trying to sell out to another company and during the acquisition phase they found out their ceo was embezzling money and they were broke so gm switched filter manufacturers and now the filters could be black or could be white thats is till the new company can start painting them blue