Routine Maintenance

[DarkKnight]

I have a routine maintenance service appointment tomorrow morning. I’m just shy of 30k miles. Besides the normal oil and filter change, and a tire rotation, is there any vital things that really need to be done to these trucks at this stage in the game, before they do their typical attempts to upsell unnecessary things not needed?
Thanks!

 

[AXE]

I have a routine maintenance service appointment tomorrow morning. I’m just shy of 30k miles. Besides the normal oil and filter change, and a tire rotation, is there any vital things that really need to be done to these trucks at this stage in the game, before they do their typical attempts to upsell unnecessary things not needed?
Thanks!

I'd change the transmission fluid, the transfer case, and the rear differential for sure. I'd do the front differential too if you run 4x4 much.

Look at your dealers website and see if they have discount coupons. If they don't, find one that does or ask for a price match. I always get deals on stuff that way.

 

[DarkKnight]

I'd change the transmission fluid, the transfer case, and the rear differential for sure. I'd do the front differential too if you run 4x4 much.

Look at your dealers website and see if they have discount coupons. If they don't, find one that does or ask for a price match. I always get deals on stuff that way.

What do those things run? Sounds pricey lol . I haven’t even used 4x4 in the 3 years I’ve had it, so probably don’t need to do the front differential. I’d of never of thought to do those things at 30k

 

[22-ZR2]

You can also look at your owners manual as a guide under maintenance. As AXE suggested there are other things you can do and definitely look at the Dealer’s website for maintenance specials, mine runs them all the time.

 

[AXE]

I did my wife's Tahoe transmission at 25k and used a dealer coupon for $150. Since there's no drain plug, its a pan off process, so it decided it wouldn't save me much to do it myself.

The transmission is supposed to be done at 30kish, everyone uses a diffrrent number. But this transmission needs clean fluid and it's susceptible to plugged valve bodies due to sketchy design. If your not out of warranty, your about to be, so might want to use caution if your keeping it a while.

I did the transfer case and differtials myself for about $60 for fluid. It's also a PIA cause no drain plugs, but not too bad.

My transfer case fluid was filthy at 17k miles and the rear diff was getting close, but I like to bang gears and use 4x4, in hot weather, so that affects fluids. My wife's fluids were cleaner at 25k, so driving habits and conditions make a difference. Neither of the front differential fluid looked bad.

It's all cheap maintenance if your keeping the truck

 

[DarkKnight]

I did my wife's Tahoe transmission at 25k and used a dealer coupon for $150. Since there's no drain plug, its a pan off process, so it decided it wouldn't save me much to do it myself.

The transmission is supposed to be done at 30kish, everyone uses a diffrrent number. But this transmission needs clean fluid and it's susceptible to plugged valve bodies due to sketchy design. If your not out of warranty, your about to be, so might want to use caution if your keeping it a while.

I did the transfer case and differtials myself for about $60 for fluid. It's also a PIA cause no drain plugs, but not too bad.

My transfer case fluid was filthy at 17k miles and the rear diff was getting close, but I like to bang gears and use 4x4, in hot weather, so that affects fluids. My wife's fluids were cleaner at 25k, so driving habits and conditions make a difference. Neither of the front differential fluid looked bad.

It's all cheap maintenance if your keeping the truck

Thank you for all this helpful info. Between the front brake pads and rotors needing done due to being at or below the 3mm threshold, and the transmission stuff needing done, they quoted me at $1,648 plus tax, to be scheduled at another day

 

[securityguy]

Brake Fluid

 

[AXE]

Thank you for all this helpful info. Between the front brake pads and rotors needing done due to being at or below the 3mm threshold, and the transmission stuff needing done, they quoted me at $1,648 plus tax, to be scheduled at another day

I would do the brakes at a brake shop. They usually do a decent job and you get good warranty on any quality level of pad. Look at the reviews and go to a reputable one.

The transmission fluid is quite expensive, so it didn't save much to do it myself, especially since it's a CF driveway job.

 

[DarkKnight]

I would do the brakes at a brake shop. They usually do a decent job and you get good warranty on any quality level of pad. Look at the reviews and go to a reputable one.

The transmission fluid is quite expensive, so it didn't save much to do it myself, especially since it's a CF driveway job.

Sound advice! Appreciate it!

 

[HighTechPauper]

If you have the means, do it yourself, you'll know what things looked like, if things look ok, you can then safely try for 50K more. But get any beginnings of life debris out of all those cases (trans, transfer,rear, and front isn't the deal breaker, but at that point it is as cheap as it will ever be). Is it a bit pricey, yes, can you be certain everything is working well without looking at the fluids and magnets from the first 30K, no, so if you're gonna keep it, or even pass it on, do it and feel a whole lot better about it.

 

[AXE]

Sound advice! Appreciate it!

Just curious what your break pad life indicator shows. I just looke at my wife's at 25k miles and it showed about 50% life remaining.

I'm about to rotate the tires, so I'll get a better look, but last time they looked to be in good shape with lots of pad left.

 

[MNNJR69]

What do those things run? Sounds pricey lol . I haven’t even used 4x4 in the 3 years I’ve had it, so probably don’t need to do the front differential. I’d of never of thought to do those things at 30k

Got a trans flush, front and rear diffs and transfer case fluids at my dealership for just under $1200 at around 35k miles

 

[DarkKnight]

If you have the means, do it yourself, you'll know what things looked like, if things look ok, you can then safely try for 50K more. But get any beginnings of life debris out of all those cases (trans, transfer,rear, and front isn't the deal breaker, but at that point it is as cheap as it will ever be). Is it a bit pricey, yes, can you be certain everything is working well without looking at the fluids and magnets from the first 30K, no, so if you're gonna keep it, or even pass it on, do it and feel a whole lot better about it.

Absolutely agree!

 

[DarkKnight]

Just curious what your break pad life indicator shows. I just looke at my wife's at 25k miles and it showed about 50% life remaining.

I'm about to rotate the tires, so I'll get a better look, but last time they looked to be in good shape with lots of pad left.

They told me they were less than 3mm and to get them done asap before they did damage to the rotors. I’m not the mechanically inclined type of person so unfortunately I’m at the liberty of what they tell me, but it is a small town dealership that is honest.

 

[MNNJR69]

Just curious what your break pad life indicator shows. I just looke at my wife's at 25k miles and it showed about 50% life remaining.

I'm about to rotate the tires, so I'll get a better look, but last time they looked to be in good shape with lots of pad left.

I'm at 42 755 miles and front say 30 and rear says 60.....but my pedal is a bit deeper, although stops good at hard stop if needed. Added a little brake fluid to keep good pedal pressure as it does drop a bit according to pad wear.

Coolant flush is crucial long before recommended (as almost everything is compared to dealer recommended) in the hot climate you and I both live/drive in.

Out of 42755 miles I have, about 65-70% of it has been freeway and the rest city. Planning both F/R brakes (High quality pads and drilled rotors are best)and new brake fluid and coolant this year.

Trying to squeeze another 5 - 10k miles before tires, so most likely, around end of year. Fairly happy with the way these stock GY have worn, but I keep a strick 3-5k miles before rotation and balance. Definitely changing brands with new ones tho. Also make sure when you rotate, an X pattern is important every rotation, rather than front/rear and X pattern only every other few times as many shops do. I use Discount tire with road hazard protection (worth every penny) and caught them just doing F/R once, and spoke up and said only X from now on. More frequently than recommended rotations are important for longer wear life with any of brand of 33 and up size mudders, especially.it.you hit trails more frequently

 

[HighTechPauper]

They told me they were less than 3mm and to get them done asap before they did damage to the rotors. I’m not the mechanically inclined type of person so unfortunately I’m at the liberty of what they tell me, but it is a small town dealership that is honest.

They told you that yes, and it is a small town honest dealership, great, but do you remember what the brake pad life indicator SAID they were at? Curious to know if it said low percentage left considering the state of your pads. When I have things like that done, I ask for the old parts back so I can evaluate if things were wearing evenly or not.

 

[AXE]

They told me they were less than 3mm and to get them done asap before they did damage to the rotors. I’m not the mechanically inclined type of person so unfortunately I’m at the liberty of what they tell me, but it is a small town dealership that is honest.

If you go into the information system in the DIC, you can select the brake pad option and it estimates the brake life. Not sure how accurate that is when measuring against a new set.

 

[AaronBellford]

I did my wife's Tahoe transmission at 25k and used a dealer coupon for $150. Since there's no drain plug, its a pan off process, so it decided it wouldn't save me much to do it myself.

The transmission is supposed to be done at 30kish, everyone uses a diffrrent number. But this transmission needs clean fluid and it's susceptible to plugged valve bodies due to sketchy design. If your not out of warranty, your about to be, so might want to use caution if your keeping it a while.

I did the transfer case and differtials myself for about $60 for fluid. It's also a PIA cause no drain plugs, but not too bad.

My transfer case fluid was filthy at 17k miles and the rear diff was getting close, but I like to bang gears and use 4x4, in hot weather, so that affects fluids. My wife's fluids were cleaner at 25k, so driving habits and conditions make a difference. Neither of the front differential fluid looked bad.

It's all cheap maintenance if your keeping the fifa world cup 2026 group d betting

That’s actually a solid breakdown. People tend to overlook how much driving style and conditions affect fluid life - especially with heat and 4x4 use. Definitely seems worth doing earlier if you plan to keep the truck long term.

 

[MNNJR69]

If you go into the information system in the DIC, you can select the brake pad option and it estimates the brake life. Not sure how accurate that is when measuring against a new set.

When I replaced my fronts.......it said 20% and I had more pad than I expected when. I don't think it was 20% though I would say more like 10 or 15 but still more pad than I expected.

 

[MNNJR69]

I have a routine maintenance service appointment tomorrow morning. I’m just shy of 30k miles. Besides the normal oil and filter change, and a tire rotation, is there any vital things that really need to be done to these trucks at this stage in the game, before they do their typical attempts to upsell unnecessary things not needed?
Thanks!

Ditto.... tranny