Motor Oil is Motor Oil

Science is a wonderful thing..
Yep all are quite similar!
But Royal Purple did make slitly more power..
I use only signature oils on the Dyno for increased power and it means less wear.
Another thing is replication of real world conditions such as oil temp.
I start by heating the oil to 300 deg. Before first pull
Most brands can't handle hi oil temps.
So considering the 6.2 ltr GM is a performance engine and gets worked hard I personally would consider spending the extra nickel to know it will perform under any load or condition.
And that's my take...!
 
Science is a wonderful thing..
Yep all are quite similar!
But Royal Purple did make slitly more power..
I use only signature oils on the Dyno for increased power and it means less wear.
Another thing is replication of real world conditions such as oil temp.
I start by heating the oil to 300 deg. Before first pull
Most brands can't handle hi oil temps.
So considering the 6.2 ltr GM is a performance engine and gets worked hard I personally would consider spending the extra nickel to know it will perform under any load or condition.
And that's my take...!
Project Farm always heats oils in his testing and weighs them afterwards to see how much evaporation there is. It's interesting to see them change color and lose volume at high temps. That's also why I think more frequent oil changes can help in higher performance motors.
 
He's another one and this discusses the performance of signature oils in high performance motors. He does state it's not good for everyday motors though!

 
I figure as long as I am buying quality oil and change it regularly (Pennzoil Plat in my case), I should be good. I generally change the oil at 20-25% life left. When I first got the truck, I thought someone was wrong with it when the wife said the oil smelled like fuel. Since it wasnt mine new, It was concerning til I looked it up and found out its normal. Another good reason to change it earlier than recommended.
 
I do enjoy Amsoil for the more boutique offerings. I use the shit out of the ISO 100 compressor oil for my air compressor and power washer.

RP makes a ND synthetic as well but when it’s tinted purple, it’s hard to take a visual of contaminants.
 
I usually use Valvoline Full Synthetic. Change regularly at around 4k-5k miles. Is this ok for the 6.2L V8? Don't drive it too hard. Mostly highway miles to and from work.
 
My 2 cents...some folks WAY over hype the topic of oil. You can use Amsoil, RP, Walmart, PP, etc. and as long as you change your oil when you should (for me it's every 5K miles regardless of what the OLM states) you will be just fine. I can assure you that your engine will not last any longer using Amsoil or RP than it will with Walmart, NAPA, PP, Mobile1, etc. If it makes you feel better using a high priced oil, go for it...not my money ;)
 
I figure as long as I am buying quality oil and change it regularly (Pennzoil Plat in my case), I should be good. I generally change the oil at 20-25% life left. When I first got the truck, I thought someone was wrong with it when the wife said the oil smelled like fuel. Since it wasnt mine new, It was concerning til I looked it up and found out its normal. Another good reason to change it earlier than recommended.
100%...you're a very smart Byrd!
 
I usually use Valvoline Full Synthetic. Change regularly at around 4k-5k miles. Is this ok for the 6.2L V8? Don't drive it too hard. Mostly highway miles to and from work.
My oil analysis on my wife's Tahoe 6.2L at 5000 miles pretty similar to my 6.2L at 3000-3500. Only thing I noticed was that it would be darker color, which means its been affected a little more by heat and contamination on the last 1500 miles. She doesn't drive as hard as I do. 5000 is probably fine for average users.
 
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