I think you would be better off. I started with a 4 channel amp. The dash really needs its own channel so does the front doors. I don't think you can really have a good sounding system with only four channels. The front doors need more power than the rest and you can't sum the dash with the rear doors. Besides if you want to take advantage of the DSP they all need their own anyway.
Honestly that will probably work fine. I was going to suggest if you do go with a 4 channel to just leave the rear on the bose. You would still want to tap into them to get the full range signal to sum with the front doors. But just letting the factory amp push them would be fine. The factory rears are 3.6 Ohms. So if you went with the kappa speakers like I have. They are 2.8 Ohms. The bose amp should actually be able to push the Kappa speakers a little louder at the same volume. It actually might work out pretty well.
I actually have my DSP files saved on my computer from me tuning the system. I used a calibrated microphone a long with audio controls software to tune mine. I have one with just the eq levels set and I have one with the time delay set for the driver. I'm not sure if they would work with your model amp, but your welcome to them. Same trucks same speakers. Should get you pretty close.
That would be amazing! It *should* be plug and play since the only difference is the is like you said the line out level for the sub amp. Thanks man! Everything gets here in the next 2 days, but doubt I'll get to the amp part that fast. Life, job, kids, and also building a '57 Chevy gets in the way lol
Nice! Yeah np just PM me your email and I'll send them to you. I'm sure you probably already know, but there is a rubber grommet on the passenger side of the fire wall you can use for the amp wire. You just snip the end and you can run the wire through it. I can probably grab a picture of it if you aren't familiar with it?
So...I ordered the D-6.1200. Returning the D-5, and adding an LC-1.800 for the sub. Just don't like not having control of the rear doors, and this way it's all covered. Also, the USB-Micro connector for the DSP and such was loose when I got it and now it doesn't work at all. So I needed to return it anyway. In a week or so I should have all the new stuff in, but you already know what it sounds like! Only difference is I have an Infinity Kappa 1000W 10" sub in a custom box and will have a bit more power. Thanks again...I'll actually get to use your files now!
Awesome. I think you will like it better. I was the same way. I just wasn't happy with a 4 channel. Wasn't bad, but just didn't give the right control. Same reason why I changed the kicker amp out to one with line inputs. Have a DSP, might as well have all the channels running through it.
Now I just need to figure out where to get remote turn on for the second amp, since it is taking the RCA signal from the D-6.1200 and isn't using hi-level inputs that would give it the auto turn on. But it sounds sooooooo much better now, even without my sub working yet.
You can use the remote out on the AC amp. The AC amp will cut on based on audio single. You can use the remote wire connection on the amp to trigger other amps. That's how mine is wired. I do believe you have to change a setting so the remote wire connection is a output vs a input.
awesome...thank you! I changed up the other amp for the sub, and went with the Rockford Fosgate T750X1bd Power 750 Watt Class-bd Mono Amplifier for the sub. It's super small, like 8.3" x 4.3" x 1.6", so I should be able to mount it behind the seat against the wall where the seatbelt goes, so it's right next to the other amp. It gets here Tuesday, so I'm just keeping the seat-back off for a couple days. And I had to do the resistor on each of the Dash, Door, and Rear door channels in order for it to send a signal. The rear doors work then stop working unless I plug the regular plug in, then I unplug it and the rears work. Strange, but maybe it's because I have a 2024 2500HD and they're using Global B architecture? Not sure.
