Upfitter Switches

[ZR2EDDYB]

Installed the new switch panel last night. It still mounts on the center lower instrument panel. The new instrument panel fuse box and harness goes directly to that location without extending any wires on the harness. On our trucks you still have to tap power for the 3 pins on the upfitter connector but otherwise these updated parts make it plug and play. I went the extra mile and refinished the buttons on my switch and laser cut new labels on them for a little custom touch. The updated parts I have found are:

ACDELCO 84726943 - Multi-Purpose Switch - Auxiliary​

F Harness - GM (85524825)​

I have not found the precut instrument panel yet but I’m sure it’s out there.

I am curious as to what all you purchased for this install. I bought both item numbers above. Is there a screw kit that is required as well? Do I run power to the battery or is it plug and play under the dash?

 

[wniemasz]

I am curious as to what all you purchased for this install. I bought both item numbers above. Is there a screw kit that is required as well? Do I run power to the battery or is it plug and play under the dash?

I just installed the switch thanks to this group, looks awesome,
question does anyone know the part number for the power harness I ordered the parts above for the refreshed interior and it was short the power cord, also does anyone know if its plug and play or do i need to jump wires
thanks

 

[mchulst]

I just installed the switch thanks to this group, looks awesome,
question does anyone know the part number for the power harness I ordered the parts above for the refreshed interior and it was short the power cord, also does anyone know if its plug and play or do i need to jump wires
thanks

If you look at my post on this thread #32 I explain this in a little better detail but our ZR2s are not wired for this to be plug and play since ours are wired for the towing package. So you will have to get signal/power for the switch backlights, switch indicator lights and run/crank signal. Without those three the switches would still work but they would not have any back lighting, on/off indication and would not provide switched power to an accessory (can only be run straight from the battery). To correct this I used some precrimped pigtails I had and t-tapped the three wires I discussed in the other post on the BCM/LCM. You can add a diode in line with these but it’s not needed here. The battery power cable should reach for you. It’s the same part across the trims. But the is a refresh specific aux fuse box/cable that is longer to reach the center console area. Another thing to consider since our trucks also do not come prewired for the rooftop beacon I went ahead and pulled out the hot wire for aux 5 switch so I could use it to supply another accessory in my application. Here’s a pic of my final product. I went a little over the top repainting and laser etching my switches so they would be a little more custom. If you have specific questions I haven’t answered just let me know and I can help walk you through it with some diagrams or pics of my setup to help you out.

 

[wniemasz]

If you look at my post on this thread #32 I explain this in a little better detail but our ZR2s are not wired for this to be plug and play since ours are wired for the towing package. So you will have to get signal/power for the switch backlights, switch indicator lights and run/crank signal. Without those three the switches would still work but they would not have any back lighting, on/off indication and would not provide switched power to an accessory (can only be run straight from the battery). To correct this I used some precrimped pigtails I had and t-tapped the three wires I discussed in the other post on the BCM/LCM. You can add a diode in line with these but it’s not needed here. The battery power cable should reach for you. It’s the same part across the trims. But the is a refresh specific aux fuse box/cable that is longer to reach the center console area. Another thing to consider since our trucks also do not come prewired for the rooftop beacon I went ahead and pulled out the hot wire for aux 5 switch so I could use it to supply another accessory in my application. Here’s a pic of my final product. I went a little over the top repainting and laser etching my switches so they would be a little more custom. If you have specific questions I haven’t answered just let me know and I can help walk you through it with some diagrams or pics of my setup to help you out.

Thanks for the info, custom switches look great nice work.

 

[ZR2EDDYB]

If you look at my post on this thread #32 I explain this in a little better detail but our ZR2s are not wired for this to be plug and play since ours are wired for the towing package. So you will have to get signal/power for the switch backlights, switch indicator lights and run/crank signal. Without those three the switches would still work but they would not have any back lighting, on/off indication and would not provide switched power to an accessory (can only be run straight from the battery). To correct this I used some precrimped pigtails I had and t-tapped the three wires I discussed in the other post on the BCM/LCM. You can add a diode in line with these but it’s not needed here. The battery power cable should reach for you. It’s the same part across the trims. But the is a refresh specific aux fuse box/cable that is longer to reach the center console area. Another thing to consider since our trucks also do not come prewired for the rooftop beacon I went ahead and pulled out the hot wire for aux 5 switch so I could use it to supply another accessory in my application. Here’s a pic of my final product. I went a little over the top repainting and laser etching my switches so they would be a little more custom. If you have specific questions I haven’t answered just let me know and I can help walk you through it with some diagrams or pics of my setup to help you out.

I’d be interested in that diagram. Are you indicating you are able to power the switches without running a line to the battery?

 

[Jase]

If you look at my post on this thread #32 I explain this in a little better detail but our ZR2s are not wired for this to be plug and play since ours are wired for the towing package. So you will have to get signal/power for the switch backlights, switch indicator lights and run/crank signal. Without those three the switches would still work but they would not have any back lighting, on/off indication and would not provide switched power to an accessory (can only be run straight from the battery). To correct this I used some precrimped pigtails I had and t-tapped the three wires I discussed in the other post on the BCM/LCM. You can add a diode in line with these but it’s not needed here. The battery power cable should reach for you. It’s the same part across the trims. But the is a refresh specific aux fuse box/cable that is longer to reach the center console area. Another thing to consider since our trucks also do not come prewired for the rooftop beacon I went ahead and pulled out the hot wire for aux 5 switch so I could use it to supply another accessory in my application. Here’s a pic of my final product. I went a little over the top repainting and laser etching my switches so they would be a little more custom. If you have specific questions I haven’t answered just let me know and I can help walk you through it with some diagrams or pics of my setup to help you out.

That is super sexy. Fantastic job on that.

Has anyone purchased the wiring harness lately?

F Harness - GM (85524825)​

I am having trouble getting my hands on it.

Does anyone have any suggestions ? or an alternative ?

 

[ZR2EDDYB]

Looks like an HD guy did the install. Not sure how similar it will be to the 1500.

2024 Chevy Upfitter Switch and Harness Install Guide

Hello, I tackled my upfitter harness today. The panel came Preinstalled in the dash, though the wiring comes as a dealer install. My dealer wanted 4 hours, and $195/hr (Canadian). So I tackled it myself. It comes with no instructions. I couldn’t find anything online for the 24s. Here is how I...

www.duramaxforum.com

 

[Pod Holes]

So I got to looking at my indicator lights and I could have caught this earlier, but the answer is in the upfitter manuals. Our ZR2’s have X213B connector as part of the trailering package. It is very similar to the X213A, auxiliary fuse block connector but only has pins 1,5,7, and 14. So no wire for run/crack voltage, backlighting or indicator lights. When I did the install I ran a pigtail from the x213 connector pin 3 and 13 to the BCM to tap the circuits needed for those pins. So I think that only 1 indicator light would light with a little back power from the relay circuit. Anyways I ran a third pigtail from pin 11 to the BCM for the indicator circuit and they function as intended now. Another thing I found…I was looking to order a second set of switches that I could repaint and laser etch new backlit labels into to match my setup and I found that gm parts now shows a switch panel and auxiliary fuse box and harness for the refreshed 22’s. So the harness would not need to be extended and the switches fit the console. I’m sure they also have a precut lower instrument panel but I could not find it. I can post part numbers if anyone is interested, and if anyone needs the details on which connector/pins to tap for the missing upfitter pins I can write up what I did for that as well.

Thanks for the info, I am getting ready to install this mod on my 2023, I was just wondering if you could let me know what wires/plug you tapped on the BMC.

 

[Almurr]

i installed a switch pro with a custom bezel instead of the upfitter, personally i prefer the switch pro because of all the added features and headache free wiring install.

Do mind the blank switches, haven't stuck on the logos yet

 

[8ball_99]

Thanks for the info, I am getting ready to install this mod on my 2023, I was just wondering if you could let me know what wires/plug you tapped on the BMC.

All you really need is a ignition wire. You can use a fuse tap on the passenger side fuse block on the fuse labeled USB. It is a 3 prong mini, so you probably will have to order a fuse tap online.

 

[Pod Holes]

Would I run all 3 wires(pin 3,11 & 13) to the one ignition (USB) tap?

 

[mchulst]

Would I run all 3 wires(pin 3,11 & 13) to the one ignition (USB) tap?

These are the three wires I taped at the BCM/LCM. They are both right beside the upfitter x213 connector. I just used t taps on the bcm LCM side to make the connection. i can get pictures under the dash of my install if that helps anyone.

 

[Pod Holes]

Thanks for your time! A picture would be great, when it comes to tapping a wire.

Thanks again!

 

[8ball_99]

Thanks for your time! A picture would be great, when it comes to tapping a wire.

Thanks again!

I'm not sure if you are familiar with Boost auto's all lights on mod. Or any of their other ones. If you wanted to tap into the BCM wires it would be the same process. Only difference is you wouldn't need a diode. Which is what Boost sells for the mod. If you look on their sight they have instructions on installing their mods on to the BCM. You basically just find the correct wire and clip into it with a T tap. T tap just cuts into the wire insulation and contacts the wire without cutting the actual wire. You will probably have to cut some of the tesa tape off the wire harnesses to access the wires. Which boost also shows in their instructions.

FWIW my switches not being tied into the dimmer controls isn't noticeable. I guess if you keep everything turned way down maybe. But the dash lights up anytime the truck is on. Connecting all three to that fuse tap will work the same way. The only difference is the backlighting on the switch won't dim down with the rest of the dash.