ZR2 : Any videos on bringing power cable from front to bed?

sardarjee

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Are there any good videos on the process to bring power cable from front battery to truck bed for ZR2?

Just want to make sure doing it right.
 
I don't know of any, But it's not all that much to it. Bring the wire straight down and follow the frame rail back to the bed. Make sure you fuse the wire close to the battery and put the wire in split loom. Secure it along the frame rail with zip ties/wire clamps.
 
I don't know of any, But it's not all that much to it. Bring the wire straight down and follow the frame rail back to the bed. Make sure you fuse the wire close to the battery and put the wire in split loom. Secure it along the frame rail with zip ties/wire clamps.
Thanks. Inside or outside of the frame? I am guessing outside frame may be way to go.
 
May want to pull wheel well liner. There are some good existing points to attach the wire. So it isn't loose. You can run right over body mount to the frame and then follow existing wires to the bed. Not sure where you want to come up through bed, but may be existing holes or grommets from other wires.

E Trailer might have some videos from some of their accessories. Their install of air compressors shows some wiring from frame back to battery for some vehicles.
 
I don't know of any, But it's not all that much to it. Bring the wire straight down and follow the frame rail back to the bed. Make sure you fuse the wire close to the battery and put the wire in split loom. Secure it along the frame rail with zip ties/wire clamps.
that like a magic 8 ball answer...
 
Thanks. Inside or outside of the frame? I am guessing outside frame may be way to go.
Outside the frame rail. The exhaust runs down the the passengers side inside the rail. I mean there is plenty of room between the exhaust and frame rail, But might as well put it on the other side of the rail. There is tons of room between the inner bed and outer body to come into the bed either in front or behind the wheel well. If going to the back of the bed you could come up the stake pocket and out the factory grommet. Getting the to the back corner is a little more trouble because of the spare and rear axle, ect. It's not bad though. I ran 4ga and 1/0ga wire to the back of the cab and I ran 1/2 airline to the rear bumper. I didn't take anything apart or drop the spare to run any of it. Pulling the front wheel liner would make that part a little easier for strapping the wire. I just reached up from underneath and did it though
 
Outside the frame rail. The exhaust runs down the the passengers side inside the rail. I mean there is plenty of room between the exhaust and frame rail, But might as well put it on the other side of the rail. There is tons of room between the inner bed and outer body to come into the bed either in front or behind the wheel well. If going to the back of the bed you could come up the stake pocket and out the factory grommet. Getting the to the back corner is a little more trouble because of the spare and rear axle, ect. It's not bad though. I ran 4ga and 1/0ga wire to the back of the cab and I ran 1/2 airline to the rear bumper. I didn't take anything apart or drop the spare to run any of it. Pulling the front wheel liner would make that part a little easier for strapping the wire. I just reached up from underneath and did it though
Thanks @8ball_99 and @AXE 👍.

I think I used the factory grommets on the front and rear bed wall (stakes) for tonneau cover.

There are two 1/2" holes on bed floor that I use for tonneau cover drainage. I think I can use one for cable and merge drainage to one floor hole.

I will also take a look at e-trailer video.

Let's see how it goes.
 
Thanks @8ball_99 and @AXE 👍.

I think I used the factory grommets on the front and rear bed wall (stakes) for tonneau cover.

There are two 1/2" holes on bed floor that I use for tonneau cover drainage. I think I can use one for cable and merge drainage to one floor hole.

I will also take a look at e-trailer video.

Let's see how it goes.
These are the ones I was talking about. Your cover might have used them not sure. My cover clamps to the rail. That whole area is hollow mostly. So you could easily just drill another hole and use your own grommet to make it look good.
20240304_164620.jpg
 
So I did find couple of positions (away from engine) and other side of chassis frame. One seems to be straight drop from just behind battery (1st and 2nd pic w/ stick) and other one through the possible wheel well liner, but may have to open up the bottom support.

One coming straight down will need to be adjusted so that it stays above the the bottom of chassis frame.

1000043283.jpg
1000043284.jpg
1000043285.jpg
 
I just did this to install my PUTCO Freedom Blade. On the passengers side frame rail is a thick wire loom that goes all the way to the bumper. I took my wire, placed it in 3/8" plastic loom and wire tied it every 6 inches to the main wiring loom. That will also keep it clear of the shocks and springs.
 
I just did this to install my PUTCO Freedom Blade. On the passengers side frame rail is a thick wire loom that goes all the way to the bumper. I took my wire, placed it in 3/8" plastic loom and wire tied it every 6 inches to the main wiring loom. That will also keep it clear of the shocks and springs.
I will trace the path out as suggested by you and see if I can apply it for my use case.
 
Yep in the photo's is more or less where I was saying. You can go straight down and follow the factory harness by the cab mount.

Just a Tip for running wires on vehicles. Go to a big box store and get the giant zip ties used for HVAC duct work. cut the buckle off the end and use that for fishing wires. They are pretty stiff but still flexible. It's what I've used for years in vehicles. Works great and they are plastic so it won't scratch or damage anything. They work really well in dash area also. I have a few fish tapes and a bunch of fiberglass rods for running wires in buildings. But those big zip ties are the ticket for vehicles.
 
If you want some great wire loom material, get this stuff. I like to have some of each. I prefer to use the expandable loom for new wires and the split loom for covering wires in place or exposed areas of new runs. It holds up better than the conduit style, rescission in extreme heat or cold. I'll out some heat shrink tubing on the ends to finish it off for a clean look. Also threads right through tight spaces or grommets.

25ft - 3/8 inch PET Expandable Braided Sleeving – Black – Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve https://a.co/d/iRdwtCT

Alex Tech 10ft - 3/8 inch Cord Protector Wire Loom Tubing Cable Sleeve Split Sleeving For USB Cable Power Cord Audio Video Cable – Protect Cat From Chewing Cords - Black https://a.co/d/h3SiB1c
 
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