Break in oil

[Waterdog]

I just crossed the 500 mile mark on my 24 6.2 and am thinking I'll change the oil around 1,000-1,500 miles and then again around 3,000 miles with what ever the dealer uses for oil in our trucks. Reading about the differences between the truck 6.2 and the vettte 6.2 one difference is oil. The vette gets synthetic 0-40. Given that I live in a warm climate (S FL) the 0-40 will probably work well here. At the 5,000 to 6,000 mile mark I think I'll tell the dealer to use the 0-40 syn. The look on the SM's face will be fun as he tells me that will make my truck explode. This is all probably a waste of time and money and won't matter in the long run. Or will it...

 

[securityguy]

I just crossed the 500 mile mark on my 24 6.2 and am thinking I'll change the oil around 1,000-1,500 miles and then again around 3,000 miles with what ever the dealer uses for oil in our trucks. Reading about the differences between the truck 6.2 and the vettte 6.2 one difference is oil. The vette gets synthetic 0-40. Given that I live in a warm climate (S FL) the 0-40 will probably work well here. At the 5,000 to 6,000 mile mark I think I'll tell the dealer to use the 0-40 syn. The look on the SM's face will be fun as he tells me that will make my truck explode. This is all probably a waste of time and money and won't matter in the long run. Or will it...

You don't need anything other than what GM recommends for our truck. I changed my oil at 1500 miles and then again at 5K and will continue every 5K or 6 months. I, too, am in FL. Stay clear of the 0-40. If you do have any issues, you will be told your warranty is void. Do what you want, but I wouldn't recommend what you are thinking of doing with oil type.

 

[XkenX]

You don't need anything other than what GM recommends for our truck. I changed my oil at 1500 miles and then again at 5K and will continue every 5K or 6 months. I, too, am in FL. Stay clear of the 0-40. If you do have any issues, you will be told your warranty is void. Do what you want, but I wouldn't recommend what you are thinking of doing with oil type.

Gm dealers have a partnership with Mobile one. The Dexos is just a GM branding. Its a synthetic blend. Having had two 6.2 liter trucks, never a oil issue with oil change quality at dealer. I wouldn't be messing around trying to fix something thats not broke. Just my opinion

 

[securityguy]

Gm dealers have a partnership with Mobile one. The Dexos is just a GM branding. Its a synthetic blend. Having had two 6.2 liter trucks, never a oil issue with oil change quality at dealer. I wouldn't be messing around trying to fix something thats not broke. Just my opinion

Did you read my post or did you mean to copy the OP???

 

[XkenX]

Did you read my post or did you mean to copy the OP???

I don't know what you mean? I must of pressed wrong button. I dont know how all the buttons work. Sorry for the confusion

 

[AXE]

The Corvette motor is an entirely different animal, built and tuned differently. Just use the recommended 0W20 oil and make sure it's a quality name brand oil......simple.

Did you read my post or did you mean to copy the OP???

Lighten up Francis, I interpreted it to mean he was agreeing with you and reinforcing the point.....LOL

 

[44sixpack]

This has been beat to death, but if you want the best then you want Redline or Amsoil Signature. the oil and additive packages are clearly superior.

My TRX forum did an extensive oil analysis with a ton of oil samples and these two are as good as money can buy. I'm running the Amsoil in the ZR2 and Redline in my TRX, it might be a waste of money, but it makes me feel good.

 

[AXE]

I'll tell you what's been beat to death.........what oil is the best oil........LMFAO.

Oil is oil if it meets the specifications. Use a quality name brand oil and change it often. It's worked for my family since they put the horses out to pasture.

 

[44sixpack]

Not really. what meets the specs will satisfy warranty requirements, you can do better if you want to. the oil tests don't lie.

 

[securityguy]

Not really. what meets the specs will satisfy warranty requirements, you can do better if you want to. the oil tests don't lie.

I would bet a years pay that if I use Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra and you use Amsoil, our engines will last the same amount of time if you do it every 5K miles/6 months like I do. Is Redline & Amsoil a waste of money? You betcha!

 

[44sixpack]

Possibly, but I got to where I can afford nice things by doing everything the best I can and taking care of my equipment and employees. I can't change.

 

[DNZR2]

This has been beat to death, but if you want the best then you want Redline or Amsoil Signature. the oil and additive packages are clearly superior.

My TRX forum did an extensive oil analysis with a ton of oil samples and these two are as good as money can buy. I'm running the Amsoil in the ZR2 and Redline in my TRX, it might be a waste of money, but it makes me feel good.

The TRX forum has oil analysis equipment? We gotta step up our game boys

 

[securityguy]

Possibly, but I got to where I can afford nice things by doing everything the best I can and taking care of my equipment and employees. I can't change.

Understand completely. I am an anal electrical engineer that, too, can afford all of the nice things life has to offer. I just try to spend wisely and stay clear of being wasteful. Moreover, I typically don't drive anything longer than 2 years or 20-25K miles tops now that I like to play with new toys often and enjoy the latest technology the industry has to offer. It's a disease I've had for quite a while that the docs say is incurable

 

[Waterdog]

No one wants to have the “what oil is best” debate. While the high end redlines and ams oils are probably the best. That would cause me to have to do the job myself. I am more than capable but stopped doing it 7 or 8 years ago. In the S Florida heat the thicker oil is better. That’s just my opinion and anecdotal things I see and hear. Going to 5-30 m1 in my Tundra made it noticeably quieter. The 0-40 syn that is just rebranded m1 is still in spec and I find it silly that it would void a warranty. It may be no better than 0-20 but in this heat I find that hard to believe. I had a Toyota service manager tell me 5-30 would ruin the Tundra 5.7. lol what! It states in the manual to use higher viscosity like 5-30 in warmer climates. When I left the service manager ignored my request and put in the 0-20. That was the beginning of the end for me and Toyota. Putting the 0-40 syn from the Chevy dealer seems like an easy way to get a higher viscosity oil in the truck without doing it myself. I don’t mind the job it’s the taking the oil to a disposal site that’s a pain in the ass. Hope y’all had a great 4th filled with beer, food, family and friends!

 

[44sixpack]

I have my own shop with a lift and everything so I do all my own maintenance and what repairs I can. if you're having your oil changed I can see where your oil choices would be more restricted.

I take care of everything as if I'm going to have it the rest of my life, and I seldom keep it past 5 years. so yes, it's usually money wasted but that's okay. my TRX I will have the rest of my life because it's not replaceable. so there it's warranted.

 

[NullNomad]

Understand completely. I am an anal electrical engineer that, too, can afford all of the nice things life has to offer. I just try to spend wisely and stay clear of being wasteful. Moreover, I typically don't drive anything longer than 2 years or 20-25K miles tops now that I like to play with new toys often and enjoy the latest technology the industry has to offer. It's a disease I've had for quite a while that the docs say is incurable

 

[AXE]

Not really. what meets the specs will satisfy warranty requirements, you can do better if you want to. the oil tests don't lie.

I've done oil tests on two 6.2s and posted them here. I'll post a couple of folllow ups as i go along. It was Mobil 1 and they look pretty good. Someone else posted their oil with Amsoil and it was really good too. It's a good comparison.

I won't argue for one oil brand or another, cause even the cheaper oils have done well in tests I've seen.

I personally think more frequent changes are better than just oil itself. Oil gets contaminated and breaks down with time and use. While it can still provide adequate protection for an extended interval, it is losing its full potential with each mile. What's the right interval? I don't know, but with modern synthetic oils, I'd say 5k is a good round number. My test results seem to confirm that is working. When I used to run mineral and semi synthetics, I did 2500 mile intervals. My motorcycles don't even see 8-10 hours (sometimes half that) on a change.

This quote is right off the Blackstone Labs website. They state oil is oil. I'd think they would be viewed as an authority on the subject.

 

[securityguy]

I truly don't care what oil any one uses. All I'm saying is that, with the lifter issues, if you were to use anything other than what GM recommends for our 6.2, it would be very easy for them to deny warranty on anything engine lubricant related. I, personally, would not be willing to take that chance.

 

[Busa Dave]

Possibly, but I got to where I can afford nice things by doing everything the best I can and taking care of my equipment and employees. I can't change.

You cannot convince some people. Been running the Amsoil for over 35 years. Have run it everything from my 850hp highly modified C7 ZO6 (racing oil is red) to AMG MB's, Porsche's, Jeeps and not to mention all of my oil burners GM, Dodge, Ram and Fords. Do not run it in wife's Beemers because they do it for free.

NOACK is one big reason I run Amsoil.

 

[securityguy]

You cannot convince some people. Been running the Amsoil for over 35 years. Have run it everything from my 850hp highly modified C7 ZO6 (racing oil is red) to AMG MB's, Porsche's, Jeeps and not to mention all of my oil burners GM, Dodge, Ram and Fords. Do not run it in wife's Beemers because they do it for free.

NOACK is one big reason I run Amsoil.

Enjoy!