Kicker subwoofer

[JStat17]

I am very glad i did it. you do lose the factory underseat storage tho.

 

[8ball_99]

Even with out the tray though you still have a lot of space under the seat with the oem kicker. Way more than other boxes I've seen.
I have a good amount of stuff under my seat. 3 drills, a tool bag full of all kinds of stuff. Jump pack, air impact, first aid kit, small back pack. Even a cigar humidor, lol

 

[AXE]

My boy helped the neighbor kid install a kicker sub in his 2006 VW Toureg. That vehicle was a giant PIA to work on. Battery was under drivers seat in a sealed box. Trim was hard to remove. Carpet was attached to floor so couldn't get the wires installed.

Finally got it and it sounds good. They did a pretty good job. Gonna clean up the wires, shorten them and get some better connectors to attach into the amp.

 

[securityguy]

My boy helped the neighbor kid install a kicker sub in his 2006 VW Toureg. That vehicle was a giant PIA to work on. Battery was under drivers seat in a sealed box. Trim was hard to remove. Carpet was attached to floor so couldn't get the wires installed.

Finally got it and it sounds good. They did a pretty good job. Gonna clean up the wires, shorten them and get some better connectors to attach into the amp.

As soon as you said VW, I knew it was going to be a major PITA! German cars are horrible to work on.

 

[AXE]

As soon as you said VW, I knew it was going to be a major PITA! German cars are horrible to work on.

In some ways it was solid, but holy shit it was hard to pull trim. Carpet was 1.5 inch thick foam backed. Had to pull the front seat to get to the battery box. It's a V8 smsl SUV, so no room under the hood I guess. Wasnt really my project, but I had to consult on it.

 

[Relic]

Yeah I don't blame them. I tried to source the bose connectors with no luck. Probably have to order 1k min of them from some random supplier. Plus they hand make them to suit your needs. That was more the reason I did my own. It was the 3 week plus lead time for it to ship. I ordered those plugs for 30 bucks and 2 day shipping. Took maybe an hour wiring everything up.

End of the day it works great. One plug is output from the bose amp, the other is inputs to the speakers. My harness has matching plugs. One is inputs to my amps other is outputs from amp. Or I can just unplug my harness and plug the factory wires back together to put it back stock. The factory Sub wire is separate. I did that on purpose so I could unplug the factory sub while I was tuning or setting the gain on my sub amp. Something that's hard to do with the bose integration harnesses.
View attachment 11797

Yeah so, I wish I lived near you. That is exceptionally well done. I re-read your other thread form time to time but cant bring myself to do an awesome setup like that.

 

[8ball_99]

Yeah so, I wish I lived near you. That is exceptionally well done. I re-read your other thread form time to time but cant bring myself to do an awesome setup like that.

I appreciate it. It's really not bad to do. Seems a little daunting at first. That's why I tried to share what I did. I didn't really know what to do and couldn't find much information on refreshed trucks. I just sort of fumbled through it with trial and error, lol. I did my 1500 and everything worked. But on the HD, I had a better idea of what to do and how to make it a little cleaner install. Especially after having to take everything out of the 1500 quickly. I tried to setup the HD, so it would be easier to remove everything if I needed to.

The amp wire under the cab, plugs at the bose amp. Everything mounted on the back wall out of the way. It all works well and seems like the easiest way. Other than the way it sounds. Inside my truck looks all stock with just a oem sub under the seat. I don't think I would do anything differently.

 

[Relic]

I appreciate it. It's really not bad to do. Seems a little daunting at first. That's why I tried to share what I did. I didn't really know what to do and couldn't find much information on refreshed trucks. I just sort of fumbled through it with trial and error, lol. I did my 1500 and everything worked. But on the HD, I had a better idea of what to do and how to make it a little cleaner install. Especially after having to take everything out of the 1500 quickly. I tried to setup the HD, so it would be easier to remove everything if I needed to.

The amp wire under the cab, plugs at the bose amp. Everything mounted on the back wall out of the way. It all works well and seems like the easiest way. Other than the way it sounds. Inside my truck looks all stock with just a oem sub under the seat. I don't think I would do anything differently.

I am still looking at a direct swap for simplicity sake. Maybe the Focal icu 690 front and focal pc 165 fe for the rear. That would come out to about the same as the factory sub cost wise. Any thoughts on that setup?

 

[8ball_99]

I am still looking at a direct swap for simplicity sake. Maybe the Focal icu 690 front and focal pc 165 fe for the rear. That would come out to about the same as the factory sub cost wise. Any thoughts on that setup?

I'm not sure. I went straight to an amp. So I can't really say how much improvement just a speaker swap would do.

 

[TexOffroader]

I am still looking at a direct swap for simplicity sake. Maybe the Focal icu 690 front and focal pc 165 fe for the rear. That would come out to about the same as the factory sub cost wise. Any thoughts on that setup?

If you have Focal taste then you’ll probably need an amp, but by starting with speaker replacement you can always step into a 6-channel amp with DSP. Even after speaker swap I doubt you’ll be able to get anymore response out of the door speakers. The hardware in theses trucks are borderline quality and falls short of an audiophile expectation. While you have the door panels removed, take the time to apply a sound dampening product and seal up those door panels.

 

[DrSage]

Anyone know what model Kicker Sub that is in the box? Wanted to look at the specs, and see how much being charged for the bolt in convenience. Thanks

 

[8ball_99]

Anyone know what model Kicker Sub that is in the box? Wanted to look at the specs, and see how much being charged for the bolt in convenience. Thanks

I think, It's basically a CompRT shallow mount. Comes with the box and a 200 watt amp. The speaker is a little different than the retail version. Mine had a sticker on it that said 1 Ohm. I replaced mine with a CompRT shallow mount with dual 4 ohm coils. I wired it up in parallel for to give me a 2 ohm load. Sounds good and bolted right in. The retail speaker is missing the threads on the back of the magnet for a bolt the box has..