Reset Torsion Keys

[aztechead]

I’m trying to reset my torsion keys to stock positions. I know, I should have kept track of where they started but hindsight is 20/20.

I’m new to this suspension type and looking for guidance on how I can go back to stock height. I’m having difficulty getting the right height equal left vs right on the front and rears.

 

[8ball_99]

Stock height is 42 1/2" to 42 5/8". Meassured from the ground to the bottom of the fender at the center of the tire. I have the length of the amount of bolt sticking out if you want. Not sure if it's the same on all of them though. I know the ride height seems to be the same though.

 

[aztechead]

Stock height is 42 1/2" to 42 5/8". Meassured from the ground to the bottom of the fender at the center of the tire. I have the length of the amount of bolt sticking out if you want. Not sure if it's the same on all of them though. I know the ride height seems to be the same though.

@8ball_99 so that’s what I’m not familiar with, does the bolt length matter or is the measured height what matters? I’ll take the measurement though so I have it.

 

[8ball_99]

@8ball_99 so that’s what I’m not familiar with, does the bolt length matter or is the measured height what matters? I’ll take the measurement though so I have it.

The ride height is what really matters, But the bolt length helps a lot. You are supposed to take all the weight off the front wheels when you adjust the keys. You also need to drive the truck a little to let it settle. So getting the height correct can be tedious if you have no reference point for the bolts.

I didn't count threads. I measured the amount of threads with calibers. And I know it's un-American, but I used millimeters lol. Driver was 31.31mm, passenger was 39.66mm. I measured the threads from the key to the bottom of the bolt head. So basically just the amount of threads showing not including the bolt head.

 

[aztechead]

The ride height is what really matters, But the bolt length helps a lot. You are supposed to take all the weight off the front wheels when you adjust the keys. You also need to drive the truck a little to let it settle. So getting the height correct can be tedious if you have no reference point for the bolts.

I didn't count threads. I measured the amount of threads with calibers. And I know it's un-American, but I used millimeters lol. Driver was 31.31mm, passenger was 39.66mm. I measured the threads from the key to the bottom of the bolt head. So basically just the amount of threads showing not including the bolt head.

This is great - I can do the conversion. I went as far as going to a dealership that has one on the lot and measured the bolts. Applying that same amount 7/8 inch driver and just under 7/8 inch passenger was way off for my truck.

Your conversion is 1 1/2 inches showing driver and 1 5/8 inches of bolt showing on passenger. Does that sound right?

These are the photos from the dealer truck today

 

[8ball_99]

31.31mm is 1.2334646in basically 1 1/4"
39.66mm is 1.5614173in basically 1 9/16"
Lol that's why I use millimeters with calibers. Fractions in inches is a hassle unless you round them.

 

[aztechead]

31.31mm is 1.2334646in basically 1 1/4"
39.66mm is 1.5614173in basically 1 9/16"
Lol that's why I use millimeters with calibers. Fractions in inches is a hassle unless you round them.

That is a considerable amount more thread that I currently have, on either side. Curious - is your truck resting on the yellow jounce stops or is there a visible gap?

 

[8ball_99]

I believe there is a gap, but I'm not infront of my truck right now. Those measurements were bone stock before I touched my keys. My ride height was 42 5/8" exactly on the drivers side. My passenger was just a hair less. I actually changed my torsion bars for aftermarket ones. My new bars are a lower spring rate. So my keys are turned up a few turns over stock. But I set them by ride height.

So my truck is back at 42 5/8" with conitgo comfort ride bars

 

[aztechead]

I believe there is a gap, but I'm not infront of my truck right now. Those measurements were bone stock before I touched my keys. My ride height was 42 5/8" exactly on the drivers side. My passenger was just a hair less. I actually changed my torsion bars for aftermarket ones. My new bars are a lower spring rate. So my keys are turned up a few turns over stock. But I set them by ride height.

No worries this is great information. Sounds like I’ve got a good path forward. If anyone else comes across this thread, feel free to drop additional information for those who have made changes / reverted the torsion keys.

 

[8ball_99]

No worries this is great information. Sounds like I’ve got a good path forward. If anyone else comes across this thread, feel free to drop additional information for those who have made changes / reverted the torsion keys.

Np, that should get you real close. Like I said, I'd go by ride height. Set the keys with those measurements. Drive around the block and then measure the ride height on a decently level surface. I'd probably do half turn adjustments till you are around that ride height. 42 1/2 to 42 5/8" seems to be the range on ZR2s. Stock wheels ofcourse. If you have 37" or something. You will have to do the math, lol

 

[ZR2NYC]

No worries this is great information. Sounds like I’ve got a good path forward. If anyone else comes across this thread, feel free to drop additional information for those who have made changes / reverted the torsion keys.

dont mind me but i was reading you guys going back and forth eating popcorn..... best tennis volley ever!!!
excellent. @8ball_99 you had me at jounce!

 

[XkenX]

31.31mm is 1.2334646in basically 1 1/4"
39.66mm is 1.5614173in basically 1 9/16"
Lol that's why I use millimeters with calibers. Fractions in inches is a hassle unless you round them.

I agree this is correct conversion.

 

[AXE]

Bolt length doesn't mean much.

Everthing sits on the frame. Measure from the front of the frame (for and aft the the CV axles) to the ground, which is the only measurement you can reliable count on.

Then proceed to measuring the fender to make you feel good.

 

[8ball_99]

Bolt length doesn't mean much.

Everthing sits on the frame. Measure from the front of the frame (for and aft the the CV axles) to the ground, which is the only measurement you can reliable count on.

Then proceed to measuring the fender to make you feel good.

Definitely should meassure Bolt length before making changes. Makes it easy to put it back to stock settings. A lot more trouble to set the tension right with out knowing where to start. When I changed my bars it would have took way longer not knowing where to start with the bolt tensioners.

Going off the fender height is just easier. Kind of the same way if you are checking squat when connecting to a trailer. Fenders is also what you go by front to back since the frame slopes up in the back. IE if you were trying to level your truck. You would go by the wheel well height front and rear, not the frame.

 

[aztechead]

Spent the morning in the driveway getting back to baseline. My drivers side ended up at 3/4 inch thread showing and passenger was 1 1/4 thread showing. I was shocked at the difference necessary to even both sides.

Drove it around for half an hour and hit some dirt road to beat it around a bit.

Measuring ground to fender at 55 PSI is now 42 5/8 inch driver and 42 5/8 ish inch passenger. Ground to frame where lower control arm connects is 14 inches on both sides.

Drove great, felt even on both sides unlike prior.

Thanks all, I’m considering this a wrap until I inevitable go 37s or the cognito bar swap.

 

[AXE]

Definitely should meassure Bolt length before making changes. Makes it easy to put it back to stock settings. A lot more trouble to set the tension right with out knowing where to start. When I changed my bars it would have took way longer not knowing where to start with the bolt tensioners.

Going off the fender height is just easier. Kind of the same way if you are checking squat when connecting to a trailer. Fenders is also what you go by front to back since the frame slopes up in the back. IE if you were trying to level your truck. You would go by the wheel well height front and rear, not the frame.

Bolt length will always be random. I've seen trucks sitting different at each corner right from the factory, so bolt length may never be good. Some rigs may never sit square at the fender either just because of manufacturing tolerances. Frame to ground is probably gonna be most reliable, but it isn't the easiest rolling around underneath. Then I just use fender to keep track of stuff over time.