Motor Oil is Motor Oil

[Byrds8]

I don't have to.
Just go to "Bob is the Oil Guy" website, where many have already done the testing.

There's no comparison between what a cracked mineral based oil is, aka Group III, like Castro, Supertech, and many others, and say an oil like AMSOIL, a Group IV Polyalphaolefins (PAOs) synthetic base oil.

PAOs have the following characteristics that make them well-suited for lubricants:
Uniform molecular structure for low friction and high shear stability
- Excellent oxidation resistance at high temperatures
- Very low pour points for cold temperature pumpability
- Naturally high viscosity index, requiring fewer viscosity modifiers

As for oil filters, there are the Fram's consisting of a filtering medium, w/glued on ends. which has a history of disintegrating in engines.
Then there's the OEM's, which are at the very least, the ones that one should use.
Then finally the best designed for using Full Synthetic oil, such as Wix XP, Mobil 1, Purolator, Amsoil, to name some.

I'm not going to argue w/you on this subject matter.
Use what you are happy with, just as I do.

If it wasn't for my turbo, I'd probably be using Pennzoil Platinum, which I've used on past Jeeps.

Why cant you use PP with your turbo? That is what is currently in my 6.6L and the wife's Jeep.

 

[Waterdog]

I read Amsoil has mostly moved away from pao base oils in favor of more additives. At least in their “full synthetic “ marine 4 stroke offerings. Only pure pao base stock oil is Redline oil now. I don’t know if that crosses over to the Amsoil automotive oils or not but, I would bet it does. It’s all about the costs now days.