What have you done to your Silverado ZR2 this week? 🛠️

So I bought the peak 1” spacer to put on the front to even things out a bit after adding the RAS. Peak recommends replacing the UCA if you add the spacer. Wondering if that needed and if so if I should go Peak or Dirt King.
For everyday driving, I went with the Dirt Kings. Peak’s UCA use a uniball. For serious off-roaring the Peak are probably superior. But for a daily driver and occasional off-roading the Dirt Kings will require little to no maintenance. The Peak uniball will require occasional maintenance. In the long run, you’ll be happier with the Dirt Kings. Just be sure to remove the Service Perch from the strut bucket when you install new UCA.
 
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For everyday driving, I went with the Dirt Kings. Peak’s UCA use a uniball. For serious off-roaring the Peak are probably superior. But for a daily driver and occasional off-roading the Dirt Kings will require little to no maintenance. The Peak uniball will require occasional maintenance. In the long run, you’ll be happier with the Dirt Kings. Just be sure to remove the Service Perch from the strut bucket when you install new UCA.
Thanks!
 
Well the tow truck just took my truck to the dealership. And after lifting the hood on Friday they’ve determined it’s not electrical and definitely engine related. Tomorrow morning they will be tearing down my motor to find the issue…… anybody know a good lemon law lawyer?!! It sucks because I absolutely love this truck
 
@JJHAWKS ...Google Lemon Law Lawyers Near Me ;)
Just got my truck back yesterday with a brand new 6.2 straight from GM. My dealership rocks. Now I wait for another 34 k miles and see if it does it again. Evidentially they believe it was the crank bearings that went bad and not the lifters. Either way I’m ok with an engine swap. I will however be looking into representation
 
Just got my truck back yesterday with a brand new 6.2 straight from GM. My dealership rocks. Now I wait for another 34 k miles and see if it does it again. Evidentially they believe it was the crank bearings that went bad and not the lifters. Either way I’m ok with an engine swap. I will however be looking into representation
So are you gonna pull oil samples on this motor to track potential issues? I decided to do that at 5k intervals and mine look clean, but it'll be interesting to see if it tells me anything that matters.
 
JJHAWKS, check with GM customer service and see if they will extend the warranty on your new engine for the aggravation, I’ve seen them do it on the Tahoe forum.
 
So are you gonna pull oil samples on this motor to track potential issues? I decided to do that at 5k intervals and mine look clean, but it'll be interesting to see if it tells me anything that matters.
I will ask the tech for samples before they ship out the old motor
 
I will ask the tech for samples before they ship out the old motor
I was talking about sampling the oil in the new motor at intervals like 5k. That way you can see if the wear metals are normal as you pack on the miles.

If you pull a sample from the old one, it'll have a lot of metals in it from the damage.
 
Today I changed the oil and filter on Big Blue. The truck is currently at 10,000 miles and this is its second oil change. The previous oil change was at 5,000 miles.
Each time I have changed it, the oil is very dark and has a gassey smell to it. But there is no metal in the oil.
Each oil change I put Mobil 1 0w-20 high mileage oil in it and a K&N HP-2012 oil filter.
If there is anything you guys would do differently please let me know.
 
Today I changed the oil and filter on Big Blue. The truck is currently at 10,000 miles and this is its second oil change. The previous oil change was at 5,000 miles.
Each time I have changed it, the oil is very dark and has a gassey smell to it. But there is no metal in the oil.
Each oil change I put Mobil 1 0w-20 high mileage oil in it and a K&N HP-2012 oil filter.
If there is anything you guys would do differently please let me know.
Yes, I wouldn't use the K&N filter.
 
Today I changed the oil and filter on Big Blue. The truck is currently at 10,000 miles and this is its second oil change. The previous oil change was at 5,000 miles.
Each time I have changed it, the oil is very dark and has a gassey smell to it. But there is no metal in the oil.
Each oil change I put Mobil 1 0w-20 high mileage oil in it and a K&N HP-2012 oil filter.
If there is anything you guys would do differently please let me know.
Yeah, I wouldn't us High Mileage motor oil for a vehicle with less than 75k miles or at all. You should be using 0W20 Dexos approved oil.

Also if your concerned about contamination and wear you should be sending in an oil sample to a lab for analysis. You can see my thread on the oil sample for more information.

If you have contamination, it's time for warranty work at your dealer.
 
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Why wouldn’t you use the K&N filter?
Over priced and the OEM filter is just fine as long as you do oil change intervals that make sense. I change my oil every 5K miles or 6 months regardless. Oil changes are cheap and there is zero reason to spend a ton on a filter when there are others that are very solid and cheaper. My 2 cents.
 
Over priced and the OEM filter is just fine as long as you do oil change intervals that make sense. I change my oil every 5K miles or 6 months regardless. Oil changes are cheap and there is zero reason to spend a ton on a filter when there are others that are very solid and cheaper. My 2 cents.
Except that you can get that filter for <$6 and I've never seen a Delco filter that cheap. I don't think anyone's going broke on the price of a filter fer crissakes!

 
Except that you can get that filter for <$6 and I've never seen a Delco filter that cheap. I don't think anyone's going broke on the price of a filter fer crissakes!

Buy what you want. All I am saying is that, if you did pay the high price for a K&N, it's not worth the extra money and you are paying for marketing and the K&N branding and not necessarily buying a better filter.
 
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