Blackstone Labs Oil Analysis

[LSnTX]

The copper certainly took a nose dive.
Do you think the M1 is better oil or just trying it.
I have a hard time not buying from Rockauto
I’m due in 1K, you’ve motivated me to get my kit ordered.
That’s good fuel mileage

 

[HighTechPauper]

The copper certainly took a nose dive.
Do you think the M1 is better oil or just trying it.
I have a hard time not buying from Rockauto
I’m due in 1K, you’ve motivated me to get my kit ordered.
That’s good fuel mileage

I think the M1 may be a little better oil, and the big reason I am trying it is 2 fold, one is you never really know if the engine likes the oil your using the best until you have tried some others and have wear number to compare it to, that is why I am waiting until I see more consistent wear numbers before I make the switch, and two, Wally World around here has had the M1 ESPx2 DexosD for a great price of $27.97 for the 5 quart jug, so that is $5.60 a quart and that is in line with the $5.87 for ACD at RA, so it is an easy choice to make. You need to have at least 2 oil changes before you start evaluating numbers, on the first change there is still a surprisingly large amount of the old brands used oil left in the motor, after that second change you can start to see the real numbers for that particular oil, but 3+ changes will clear things up pretty good as far as the numbers under that brands current formulation. If you find the oil that gets your wear numbers consistently lower, the engine will benefit from it, doesn't matter what brand it is, the numbers don't lie, but I also have to balance that with cost effectiveness, so no Royal or Amsoil for me, with my short OCI it just doesn't really make that much sense to spend that much. IMHO/YMMV

Edit: I forgot to mention, while M1 actually makes the ACD oil at this time, I also know that the ESPx2 and the ACD are NOT the exact same formulations, so I am surmising that the ESPx2 formulation and add pack may be a little better, it isn't just the price causing the experiment, there is a little method to my madness.

 

[AXE]

I think the M1 may be a little better oil, and the big reason I am trying it is 2 fold, one is you never really know if the engine likes the oil your using the best until you have tried some others and have wear number to compare it to, that is why I am waiting until I see more consistent wear numbers before I make the switch, and two, Wally World around here has had the M1 ESPx2 DexosD for a great price of $27.97 for the 5 quart jug, so that is $5.60 a quart and that is in line with the $5.87 for ACD at RA, so it is an easy choice to make. You need to have at least 2 oil changes before you start evaluating numbers, on the first change there is still a surprisingly large amount of the old brands used oil left in the motor, after that second change you can start to see the real numbers for that particular oil, but 3+ changes will clear things up pretty good as far as the numbers under that brands current formulation. If you find the oil that gets your wear numbers consistently lower, the engine will benefit from it, doesn't matter what brand it is, the numbers don't lie, but I also have to balance that with cost effectiveness, so no Royal or Amsoil for me, with my short OCI it just doesn't really make that much sense to spend that much. IMHO/YMMV

I think shorter intervals are better than higher priced oil. Not that I think some oils can't run longer than average, it just isn't my style. I love changing oil.

 

[LSnTX]

Yes, especially to your last point I’d like to evaluate the add pack in the M1.
I do 5K OCI also

 

[Jace]

Hi Guys,

Thought I'd jump in on this thread, post mine and ask a question.
All levels have dropped off between tests (note the Australian distributor changes the oil to 5w30 on the first change for local conditions)
My question is have you guys experienced high fuel % in the oil? The analysis Guy said to not be too worried about it and attributed it to short runs and not getting hot enough to burn the fuel off in the oil, said it was the biggest issue they see. The problem is its nuking my viscosity.
Thoughts?
P.S. I never let it get anywhere near the OD gears now around town...as per AXE advice L3 and floor it

 

[AXE]

Hi Guys,

Thought I'd jump in on this thread, post mine and ask a question.
All levels have dropped off between tests (note the Australian distributor changes the oil to 5w30 on the first change for local conditions)
My question is have you guys experienced high fuel % in the oil? The analysis Guy said to not be too worried about it and attributed it to short runs and not getting hot enough to burn the fuel off in the oil, said it was the biggest issue they see. The problem is its nuking my viscosity.
Thoughts?
P.S. I never let it get anywhere near the OD gears now around town...as per AXE advice L3 and floor it View attachment 21860

I don't think there has been too many issues with fuel in the oil, but could see that happening the way it's described.

That's another reason a shorter interval might be better for these motors. You just never know what they might be doing.

Not sure why they spec 5w30,but maybe try 0W20 and see if fuel dilution persists. Perhaps the cylinder pressure is higher with thicker oil and the rings are letting some air past. Not sure that is a real scinetific analysis, but just something that popped into my head.

 

[HighTechPauper]

Hi Guys,

Thought I'd jump in on this thread, post mine and ask a question.
All levels have dropped off between tests (note the Australian distributor changes the oil to 5w30 on the first change for local conditions)
My question is have you guys experienced high fuel % in the oil? The analysis Guy said to not be too worried about it and attributed it to short runs and not getting hot enough to burn the fuel off in the oil, said it was the biggest issue they see. The problem is its nuking my viscosity.
Thoughts?
P.S. I never let it get anywhere near the OD gears now around town...as per AXE advice L3 and floor it View attachment 21860

I think what stands out to me is this...
This is 2 reports, they don't really form a trend yet.
There will always be some oil left in the engine when it is changed, maybe the 0W-20 diluted the 5W-30 some and could account for this lowered viscosity reading.
Even the oil analysis company says they see fuel dilution frequently, could this point to an issue with their test and maybe the result is wrong or skewed somehow?
If the test is accurate, are you running a very short distance/time to work and back etc.?
It isn't a good thing to run the engine hard until it is up to full temperature and has had time to expand the pistons to finish sealing the combustion chamber as much as possible to stop blow by.
It takes time at full temperature to boil off fuel and moisture, like a pot of boiling water, it doesn't evaporate in moments, it takes a significant time boiling to burn it all away.
I would say to drive gently until the motor is up to full temp, this will reduce cold engine blow by, and wait for a few more reports to see how things are trending, I had a fuel dilution report on my Camaro once, but it was just once and disappeared the next report and the ones after, and coincidentally the dilution issue (.5%) was the second report just like yours.
IMHO/YMMV

 

[AXE]

In that last video I linked about the 6.2L bearing failure that features Lake Speed, he mentioned low copper and lead readings as being a sign of no significant bearing wear. I think tin and silver are supposed to be low or 0 too. In the four tests I've done, copper was higher on the first test during wear in, then dropped a lot. No real lead, copper, or tin and silver in the second tests.

I am not really concerned with the health of my motors based upon this analysis. I am inclined to keep running the 0W20. However, I am getting close to a change on the Tahoe, so was considering switching to the Mobil 1 FS 0W40 Dexos R approved. It's on sale at Walmart right now for $5 quart, so cheaper than the 0W20. Then do another oil analysis and see if it tells me anything different.

Robot or human?

 

[DNZR2]

Had the 2nd oil change done on my 6,2 2025 at 4000 miles, did the first one at 1000 miles. I will be sending the oil sample off to Blackstone today. I’ll post the results when I get them.

 

[AXE]

Had the 2nd oil change done on my 6,2 2025 at 4000 miles, did the first one at 1000 miles. I will be sending the oil sample off to Blackstone today. I’ll post the results when I get them.

Did you switch to 0W40. I don't think your 2025 calls for that change. My recall didn't specify a remedy yet. Still thinking of switching both rigs doing another 0W20 test now and one after driving in summer heat with 0W40 just for science.

I looked back at all the samples posted and noticed that the initial ones at low mileage had elevated copper levels in teens. But they all dropped off later with miles and most below averages. That seems to be a good trend after break in and some wear in.

Lake Speed said if copper is in double digits, you may have bearing issues. So from my perspective, most of these motors seem to be in good condition if you can rely on the analysis.

 

[DNZR2]

Did you switch to 0W40. I don't think your 2025 calls for that change. My recall didn't specify a remedy yet. Still thinking of switching both rigs doing another 0W20 test now and one after driving in summer heat with 0W40 just for science.

I looked back at all the samples posted and noticed that the initial ones at low mileage had elevated copper levels in teens. But they all dropped off later with miles and most below averages. That seems to be a good trend after break in and some wear in.

Lake Speed said if copper is in double digits, you may have bearing issues. So from my perspective, most of these motors seem to be in good condition if you can rely on the analysis.

I had it done at the dealership since my hand is messed up right now. They put 0W-20 back in. Also had them fix the camera issue.