Parasitic Draw -- Dead Battery

[USMCsilver]

My '23 ZR2 Silverado was dead this morning. I put a new battery in it about 4 months ago.

It doesn't get driven much and has sat for about a week. I got the vehicle health report in my email about 2 days ago, and it didn't mention a battery issue.

It was so dead, I had to pull the key outta the fob. And then, my jump pack wouldn't even budge the motor. It's sitting on a charger, now....

The only mods to the truck are power running boards and an amp. I don't think either are the issue.

Is is relatively easy (cheap) to find the battery gremlins, or am I better off just running the truck more often?

 

[bobo57]

My '23 ZR2 Silverado was dead this morning. I put a new battery in it about 4 months ago.

It doesn't get driven much and has sat for about a week. I got the vehicle health report in my email about 2 days ago, and it didn't mention a battery issue.

It was so dead, I had to pull the key outta the fob. And then, my jump pack wouldn't even budge the motor. It's sitting on a charger, now....

The only mods to the truck are power running boards and an amp. I don't think either are the issue.

Is is relatively easy (cheap) to find the battery gremlins, or am I better off just running the truck more often?

Power running boards will drain the battery in a week to 10 days. Which manufacturer do you have? I was thinking of adding the RSE steps to my Jepp but found out about the parasitic power draw. I called the manufacturer and their steps draw somewhere between 90-140 milliamps. That'll kill it in a hurry. Gotta keep it on a charger constantly.

 

[8ball_99]

Its very cheap, but it can be a hassle. You just need a multimeter. You can put the meter between the battery terminal and battery to meassure the draw. Then its just a matter of pulling fuses till you find the offending circuit. Could very well be the power steps like bobo57 mentioned. On a newer vehicle it's usually something thats been added. But it can definitely be a problem with something oem not shutting down properly.

 

[AXE]

My '23 ZR2 Silverado was dead this morning. I put a new battery in it about 4 months ago.

It doesn't get driven much and has sat for about a week. I got the vehicle health report in my email about 2 days ago, and it didn't mention a battery issue.

It was so dead, I had to pull the key outta the fob. And then, my jump pack wouldn't even budge the motor. It's sitting on a charger, now....

The only mods to the truck are power running boards and an amp. I don't think either are the issue.

Is is relatively easy (cheap) to find the battery gremlins, or am I better off just running the truck more often?

Sounds like a failed OTA software update. Had something like this on my wife's Tahoe, no rhyme or reason. Charged it up and started fine. Took it to the dealer for battery warranty. They charged and drained it twice and couldn't find any problems. It passed their tests and hasn't missed a beat in months

I leave my trucks sit for long time and have several accessories including lights, steps, air compressors, etc plugged in and it never drains. I travel for work and have let them sit 2 weeks to 2 months and started fine.

 

[AXE]

If you want a nice battery/charging system meter, get this Foxwell units from Amazon. It works great and the newest model is on sale now.

I used this on my wife's Tahoe battery and monitored it for a few days after it had been charged. I would notice the voltage move up and down, but not a lot. I think the ECU is always churning and communicating with GM.

Amazon.com

I have the older version, a little cheaper.

Amazon.com

 

[MrScottly]

Or...You bought a shitty Exide battery and the dice roll didn't go in your favor.

 

[USMCsilver]

Or...You bought a shitty Exide battery and the dice roll didn't go in your favor.

It's a $250 Duralast w/ a 4 year warranty.

 

[USMCsilver]

Its very cheap, but it can be a hassle. You just need a multimeter. You can put the meter between the battery terminal and battery to meassure the draw. Then its just a matter of pulling fuses till you find the offending circuit. Could very well be the power steps like bobo57 mentioned. On a newer vehicle it's usually something thats been added. But it can definitely be a problem with something oem not shutting down properly.

The steps are straight-wired to the positive post on the battery. No fuse pulling necessary if it's straight wired... I'd always see a draw on something that's hooked up hot, right?

 

[8ball_99]

The steps are straight-wired to the positive post on the battery. No fuse pulling necessary if it's straight wired... I'd always see a draw on something that's hooked up hot, right?

Usually I put the meter between the negative cable and the battery. The way new vehicles work you have to let the truck go to sleep 1st. Everything cuts off after 10-20 mins. You should only see like 20 mA or so. If you open a door, push a button, ect you have to wait for it to shut back off. Also with our trucks the keyfob needs to be no where near it.

One of my teenagers killed two different batteries last year. His Amazon special rock lights were pulling power even when off., lol

 

[MrScottly]

It's a $250 Duralast w/ a 4 year warranty.

I'm not busting chops about your choice. Exide makes some of the Duralast product. Some of the Duralast product is made by Johnson Controls, a very well-respected manufacturer of batteries. JC used to make all of the Interstate brand, but that has changed. East Penn, another manufacturer, makes some of the Duralast products. East Penn makes (or used to) all the OEM Harley Davidson batteries, and has a good reputation. Exide is a pure, unadulterated piece of dog shit...Everything they make. The pro-rata warranties ensure that they are rarely on the losing end of replacing a battery. There are vendor charge-back agreements in place with the retailers that sell them, and the actual dead landed cost of an Exide car battery at the retailer is about 40% lower than their "sale" price. So, if you paid $250 on sale for an Exide, the retailer paid $180, and Exide has about $90 into it's cost of production and delivery. If that POS makes it 17mo and get's prorated, other than the small fee Exide pays the retailer to handle it, Exide breaks even on replacing it. It's a fucking racket. I hope you have a JC battery.

 

[USMCsilver]

I'm not busting chops about your choice. Exide makes some of the Duralast product. Some of the Duralast product is made by Johnson Controls, a very well-respected manufacturer of batteries. JC used to make all of the Interstate brand, but that has changed. East Penn, another manufacturer, makes some of the Duralast products. East Penn makes (or used to) all the OEM Harley Davidson batteries, and has a good reputation. Exide is a pure, unadulterated piece of dog shit...Everything they make. The pro-rata warranties ensure that they are rarely on the losing end of replacing a battery. There are vendor charge-back agreements in place with the retailers that sell them, and the actual dead landed cost of an Exide car battery at the retailer is about 40% lower than their "sale" price. So, if you paid $250 on sale for an Exide, the retailer paid $180, and Exide has about $90 into it's cost of production and delivery. If that POS makes it 17mo and get's prorated, other than the small fee Exide pays the retailer to handle it, Exide breaks even on replacing it. It's a fucking racket. I hope you have a JC battery.

Interesting... Never new any of this. I looked for an Interstate, but nothing was available "NOW" -- exactly when I needed it.

I'll add that removal sucks and the battery dude needs to be tortured with a heated torque wrench.

So, next time, what do I get? Interstate or something else?

 

[KLA]

East Penn makes DeKa Batteries also

 

[TexOffroader]

Interesting... Never new any of this. I looked for an Interstate, but nothing was available "NOW" -- exactly when I needed it.

I'll add that removal sucks and the battery dude needs to be tortured with a heated torque wrench.

So, next time, what do I get? Interstate or something else?

Never take advice from a bot.

 

[bobo57]

Interesting... Never new any of this. I looked for an Interstate, but nothing was available "NOW" -- exactly when I needed it.

I'll add that removal sucks and the battery dude needs to be tortured with a heated torque wrench.

So, next time, what do I get? Interstate or something else?

I installed a lead on the battery to attach the charger easier, and looked at how the battery is buried. Damn not looking forward to the removal and replacement when it goes.

 

[AXE]

Never take advice from a bot.

They're still eating it up! That's Exise comment was just some cobbled together bullshit from the interweds deepest reaches......AI knows no bounds.