Subs, 10's, 12's and the HUD

[Byrds8]

Was thinking about more bass in the truck. Current I have the kicker 10" but feel like Id like more. Not looking to spend $3K or nothing but what would you guys suggest between 10's or 12's? What brand and amp?

What does yours do to your HUD? The 10" Kicker already makes it jump all over the place.

Thanks for the input.

 

[laibal]

It jumps around...but nothing you can do about it really

 

[GATORB8]

Do you know the specs for the kicker amp and subs? There may be an opportunity to upgrade a piece and get more output out of the current enclosure.

On the HUD, it looks like it's a one piece unit and it would seem like it's more likely the internal stabilization that is being affected than the mounting of the unit, so probably no great solution there. Does maximizing up or down position help at all?

 

[Byrds8]

Do you know the specs for the kicker amp and subs? There may be an opportunity to upgrade a piece and get more output out of the current enclosure.

On the HUD, it looks like it's a one piece unit and it would seem like it's more likely the internal stabilization that is being affected than the mounting of the unit, so probably no great solution there. Does maximizing up or down position help at all?

View attachment 24060

The kicker that is in it is the one you can get from GM. So beyond that, I am unsure. I can tell you I flipped the switches when I installed it to get maximum bass out of it.

So if there is no way to more stabilize it, guess more bass would make it worse. Wonder if I could break it with too much lol.

 

[ZR2xBIZON]

If you want some bass in your truck I would recommend this. Maybe buy 2 if you really want to take it to the next level. Thank me later

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[GATORB8]

The kicker that is in it is the one you can get from GM. So beyond that, I am unsure. I can tell you I flipped the switches when I installed it to get maximum bass out of it.

So if there is no way to more stabilize it, guess more bass would make it worse. Wonder if I could break it with too much lol.

Are there any actual specs on the amplifier? If not, what is it fused with?

Probably would need to pull the sub and see if it's printed with specs (or at least get measurements from it).

I'd assume the advertised 200 watts is likely "max" and you may have some room to upgrade the amplifier. Also, there may a more efficient sub available in the same size chassis.

 

[8ball_99]

The OEM kicker is a RW10CVT10 1 OHM sub. You can't find just that sub unmounted. Atleast I couldn't when I blew mine, lol. From what I gather it should be a 350watt RMS. I did have a larger amp on mine which I'm sure is how I blew it. To be fair I had it for a long time before it went. I ended up stopping at a local shop and just picking up a pioneer shallow mount sub when mine went. Changed it in the parking lot actually, lol. It was all they had in stock. I didn't like it and ended up ordering another kicker, But the 4 ohm version. Not real sure on the factory AMPs specs. Other then it says 200watts. Pretty hard to find the specs on it. But the sub will handle a lot more power then that amp. Same time it is a shallow 10" in a smaller box. So it's only going to do so much. The HUD would be useless with a large system. Like you said just the single 10" makes it pretty hard to make out. Especially if you put a larger amp on it. Here is a picture of the OEM sub

 

[Byrds8]

The OEM kicker is a RW10CVT10 1 OHM sub. You can't find just that sub unmounted. Atleast I couldn't when I blew mine, lol. From what I gather it should be a 350watt RMS. I did have a larger amp on mine which I'm sure is how I blew it. To be fair I had it for a long time before it went. I ended up stopping at a local shop and just picking up a pioneer shallow mount sub when mine went. Changed it in the parking lot actually, lol. It was all they had in stock. I didn't like it and ended up ordering another kicker, But the 4 ohm version. Not real sure on the factory AMPs specs. Other then it says 200watts. Pretty hard to find the specs on it. But the sub will handle a lot more power then that amp. Same time it is a shallow 10" in a smaller box. So it's only going to do so much. The HUD would be useless with a large system. Like you said just the single 10" makes it pretty hard to make out. Especially if you put a larger amp on it. Here is a picture of the OEM sub
View attachment 24075

Thanks for the info. I’m still contemplating it. Maybe I can have more when I want more and less when I don’t if I change it out. When looking for custom enclosures that would fit, I found Skar audio has a box and two 12s or 10s for under $500. Amp and wiring kit would be another $300. Also found a harness to tap the sub input for $80. Just not sure of the quality of Skar or if I should go with 10s or 12s.

 

[8ball_99]

I keep a lot of stuff under my back seat. So I haven't bothered trying to do a larger box or more subs. The OEM box actually does pretty good to me. I also like that it looks factory and you don't even know it's there with the seat down. I have a CXA800.1T on mine. The sub I replaced the original one with is 4 Ohm DVC. I have it wired for 2 Ohm load. My amp is rated for 600watts at 2 ohms. So it's more then enough for my sub rated at 400RMS\800 peak. I replaced all my speakers and the Bose amp though. I'm sure that helps in my case. Because the sub isn't doing absolutely all the work like it is with the factory setup. The factory Bose system is pretty bad in these trucks.

 

[Byrds8]

I keep a lot of stuff under my back seat. So I haven't bothered trying to do a larger box or more subs. The OEM box actually does pretty good to me. I also like that it looks factory and you don't even know it's there with the seat down. I have a CXA800.1T on mine. The sub I replaced the original one with is 4 Ohm DVC. I have it wired for 2 Ohm load. My amp is rated for 600watts at 2 ohms. So it's more then enough for my sub rated at 400RMS\800 peak. I replaced all my speakers and the Bose amp though. I'm sure that helps in my case. Because the sub isn't doing absolutely all the work like it is with the factory setup. The factory Bose system is pretty bad in these trucks.

I will admit I have heard better in a Ram for factory sound. However, it doesn’t bother me enough to do a fully replace I don’t plan on this being my final truck so just doing enough for now. In a few years I’ll get whatever will be the last. Hopefully by then the quality will be better too lol. I don’t have a lot under my seats as I have a trunk in the bed full of crap. If there was a simple way to change the amp and sub in its box I might would go for that. Just don’t want to hack anything up to accomplish it.