I'll be first in line when the aftermarket inserts show up that are functional (I know, cutting the hood to make it functional sucks) and are integrated with a good CAI kit.
I'm right behind you.
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I'll be first in line when the aftermarket inserts show up that are functional (I know, cutting the hood to make it functional sucks) and are integrated with a good CAI kit.
It’s only adhesion issue due to timing between the application of coats. If the product doesn’t flash correctly it will not adhere properly.Possibly on the door but definitely not on the hoods. I do find it odd that we're in the 4th year of them using that coating on the rockers of these trucks. Now they're having adhesion issues now because it's now up on the door of the ZR2?
The hoods are peeling because of those stupid hood inserts. If you look at one when it's dirty, water and dirt just pools up at the front the insert. It also seems like there's no insulation underneath to protect the paint from the hard plastic of the insert but I haven't removed one to see.
That hood insert was a poorly tested design decision, imo. If you're off-roading it really blocks your view.
There’s no special primer in the collision industry for Gravel Gaurd. If the area was repaired it’s primed and feathered out. And sealer is applied on top to reduce the amount of base coat for proper coverage and reduce “bleed through”Both of mine were 5/22 builds. I can get more specific via build sheet if needed.
I know someone with a glacier blue 04/22 build date peeling as well.
After discussing with MANY techs, service advisors, and GM, the consensus belief is that since the ZR2 is the only GM truck (along with the AT4X) that has the chip guard 1/4 on the lower door panels, GM is not applying the proper primer prior to painting. If you look at my door peels, there is no primer on both truck doors. Also, there is an adhesion issue obviously due to either aluminum (if they are aluminum?) or because of the “rubberized” texture one mechanic told me is used. Who knows the true culprit, and I’m waiting to hear back about how GM is moving forward with my current black truck. I will let a body shop touch up the chip guard section of both doors as long as no door removal is needed. However, I’m worried about blending, specifically on the front fenders and rear truck bed where those two areas also have chip guard. If the peeling stops where it is currently, I’m ok with touching up my current bare metal areas and moving forward. BUT, will the peeling stop there? Over time, I doubt not. So frustrating that Chevy didn’t due the research on the rock chip painted doors to ascertain durability. Then again, maybe they did and said heck, it’s good enough
So, to fix my peeling (and others inevitably), you’re saying they would sand, prime, and feather out? If so, how far and can they still make it look like gravel guard? Honestly, if that can happen, I’m happy knowing a body shop can apply it correctly and maybe thicker with a factory look. Can you elaborate further? Thanks.There’s no special primer in the collision industry for Gravel Gaurd. If the area was repaired it’s primed and feathered out. And sealer is applied on top to reduce the amount of base coat for proper coverage and reduce “bleed through”
The failure is a insufficient flash time issue.
The Aluminum Material is irrelevant. As the E coat is the first layer on the bare metal. And that has zero adhesion issues based on every photo I have seen.
We on this forum are the Beta testers for a new model. The first run is going to have issues. Especially if our trucks have an additional refinish step that hasn’t been through the wheels of production to get the bugs worked out.
Gravel guard is reapplied all the time on repair panels. It’s sanded off and resprayed. The texture may differ slightly but it will be uniform on the blend panels.So, to fix my peeling (and others inevitably), you’re saying they would sand, prime, and feather out? If so, how far and can they still make it look like gravel guard? Honestly, if that can happen, I’m happy knowing a body shop can apply it correctly and maybe thicker with a factory look. Can you elaborate further? Thanks.
don't forget the clunking leaf springsPaint chipping and electronic issues, pretty disappointing
If your dealer doesn't have a body shop, you need to go to a Chevy dealer that does have one. GM is very weird when it comes to getting warranty handled by an independent body shop.Mine is 9/22 build been arguing with dealer about it. They sent me to a body shop and when they got the 5k estimate back they said they or gm wouldn't pay that. Paint coming off all 4 doors and hood noticed it at 400 miles
gm said that they would do buy back dealer said they know nothing about it. the owner of the dealership called me asked why i wanted to do the buy back but general manager said he didnt hear anything about it.If your dealer doesn't have a body shop, you need to go to a Chevy dealer that does have one. GM is very weird when it comes to getting warranty handled by an independent body shop.
Take it to a Chevy dealer with a good body shop and have them write it up for warranty. You can show them countless threads on peeling paint on these trucks if they try to say it's not a warranty issue.
I tried that route. The GM body shop refused to work on my truck. Went back to my dealership and now it is at the body shop across the street, not a GM body shop.If your dealer doesn't have a body shop, you need to go to a Chevy dealer that does have one. GM is very weird when it comes to getting warranty handled by an independent body shop.
Take it to a Chevy dealer with a good body shop and have them write it up for warranty. You can show them countless threads on peeling paint on these trucks if they try to say it's not a warranty issue.
Mine looked the same. I was told there is a bulletin on the peeling paint, especially white ones. I was sent to a GM body shop they would not take it. My dealer sent my truck to the shop across the street. It will be done next week. Three weeks later.Mine is 9/22 build been arguing with dealer about it. They sent me to a body shop and when they got the 5k estimate back they said they or gm wouldn't pay that. Paint coming off all 4 doors and hood noticed it at 400 miles
It sucks that you seem to be surrounded by shitty dealerships.I tried that route. The GM body shop refused to work on my truck. Went back to my dealership and now it is at the body shop across the street, not a GM body shop.
The GM body shop refused to do the work because GM paid less than they said they would normally charge and they were not willing to loose money on a non customer car.
I agree. I will say my dealership has been decent.It sucks that you seem to be surrounded by shitty dealerships.