Dash Cam and Radar Detector Installation

I cut the ends off both wires and put on a Wago connector. Everything is in good working order now. (y)
WAGOs are great, but not designed for use in cars. They'll work for sure but not designed for a high vibration environment. If i ever starts acting wacky, first thing I'd check is the WAGO connection. Always best to solder and heat shrink or a well done crimp connection.
 
WAGOs are great, but not designed for use in cars. They'll work for sure but not designed for a high vibration environment. If i ever starts acting wacky, first thing I'd check is the WAGO connection. Always best to solder and heat shrink or a well done crimp connection.

Tell that to the RV industry, lol. They use them every where. btw im not disagreeing with you. RVs use to use crimp nuts. Its all WAGOs now. AC and DC connections. So in theory they should be fine. RVs mostly work 😅

Just a crimp connection is best for high vibration stuff. Solder connection can break at the edge of the solder. Generally not recommended in automotive. Atleast that's what they say. I still solder all the wiring connections on my utility trailers 🤷
 
Solder vs crimp is a religious battle ground. Crappy solder glob jobs can fail in a heart beat. Then you get a Magilla Gorilla type mashing on the pliers, a crimp will fail just as fast when 2/3 of is is cut or compromised. That being said, wiring can be an art form, so many factors go into it and when to use what. For me, I'm 50/50 when it comes to when I use solder vs crimp, guess that would consider me "connector agnostic" lol
 
Solder vs crimp is a religious battle ground. Crappy solder glob jobs can fail in a heart beat. Then you get a Magilla Gorilla type mashing on the pliers, a crimp will fail just as fast when 2/3 of is is cut or compromised. That being said, wiring can be an art form, so many factors go into it and when to use what. For me, I'm 50/50 when it comes to when I use solder vs crimp, guess that would consider me "connector agnostic" lol

Facts! That's why when I said generally not recommended and made sure I also said I still do it. Because the crimp vs solder debates can be heated 🤣
 
Facts! That's why when I said generally not recommended and made sure I also said I still do it. Because the crimp vs solder debates can be heated 🤣
oh dont use the word "heated" when talking about connectors! Now you're going to trigger me with the jack wagons using heat guns on shrink too long saying "it just helps the crimp/solder bond better the longer I hold it on there". meanwhile you can visually see fail happening as the magic smoke rises like the soul of the connector leaving its body...
 
Tell that to the RV industry, lol. They use them every where. btw im not disagreeing with you. RVs use to use crimp nuts. Its all WAGOs now. AC and DC connections. So in theory they should be fine. RVs mostly work 😅

Just a crimp connection is best for high vibration stuff. Solder connection can break at the edge of the solder. Generally not recommended in automotive. Atleast that's what they say. I still solder all the wiring connections on my utility trailers 🤷
Yep...the reliability of the RV industry is right up there with GM, Ford and RAM :ROFLMAO: As an EE, I have been installing vehicle electronics since I was in Jr. High School. I was the kid who all of the High School kids brought their cars to to install Pioneer, Alpine and Kenwood car stereo & speakers, CB radios, Radar Detectors, Musical Horns, etc. When I graduated college and got an Engineering job with Motorola, I was teaching all of our service centers how to properly install two way communications gear in police cars, fire trucks/ambulances, taxi cabs and more. If you know how to properly solder, there is no substitute for that. A solid solder connection that's heat shrinked is second to none. If you crimp, don't use pliers or a tool that isn't designed to crimp a connection properly. I use something similar to what's in the link below. I have always believed in doing it right the first time because I don't want folks coming back to me with electrical issues ;)

Now, I mostly install dash cams, stereo upgrades, and other electronics in cars/trucks for friends, family and neighbors on the side when I have time.

 
Yep...the reliability of the RV industry is right up there with GM, Ford and RAM :ROFLMAO: As an EE, I have been installing vehicle electronics since I was in Jr. High School. I was the kid who all of the High School kids brought their cars to to install Pioneer, Alpine and Kenwood car stereo & speakers, CB radios, Radar Detectors, Musical Horns, etc. When I graduated college and got an Engineering job with Motorola, I was teaching all of our service centers how to properly install two way communications gear in police cars, fire trucks/ambulances, taxi cabs and more. If you know how to properly solder, there is no substitute for that. A solid solder connection that's heat shrinked is second to none. If you crimp, don't use pliers or a tool that isn't designed to crimp a connection properly. I use something similar to what's in the link below. I have always believed in doing it right the first time because I don't want folks coming back to me with electrical issues ;)

Now, I mostly install dash cams, stereo upgrades, and other electronics in cars/trucks for friends, family and neighbors on the side when I have time.

All my wiring tools are Paladin or Klein, I'm totally with you. Have the right tool for the right job and it will last forever.
 
Yep...the reliability of the RV industry is right up there with GM, Ford and RAM :ROFLMAO: As an EE, I have been installing vehicle electronics since I was in Jr. High School. I was the kid who all of the High School kids brought their cars to to install Pioneer, Alpine and Kenwood car stereo & speakers, CB radios, Radar Detectors, Musical Horns, etc. When I graduated college and got an Engineering job with Motorola, I was teaching all of our service centers how to properly install two way communications gear in police cars, fire trucks/ambulances, taxi cabs and more. If you know how to properly solder, there is no substitute for that. A solid solder connection that's heat shrinked is second to none. If you crimp, don't use pliers or a tool that isn't designed to crimp a connection properly. I use something similar to what's in the link below. I have always believed in doing it right the first time because I don't want folks coming back to me with electrical issues ;)

Now, I mostly install dash cams, stereo upgrades, and other electronics in cars/trucks for friends, family and neighbors on the side when I have time.

LoL, I actually have a pair of those exact crimpers. I build and lease commercial property now, But I grew up working at a RV Dealership. I worked on RVs and installed truck accessories for years. Lots of low voltage wiring. I also worked at a stereo shop back in the 90s. Did stereo installs and interior work. My kids friends call me the wire wizard, lol. Not that I'm a expert. They are just teenagers and are constantly messing their trucks up with their stereos, star lights, light bars, ect and their piss poor wiring skills. I don't do it for a living either anymore, But I still enjoy it. I still like working on RV's also. I fix them for friends and family. I've pretty much kept a trailer since we got out of it. All the solar stuff now is cool. I put a full victron system with some solar in my Toyhauler last year right after I bought it. Also went through all the factory wiring and cleaned everything up. :rolleyes:
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WAGOs are great, but not designed for use in cars. They'll work for sure but not designed for a high vibration environment. If i ever starts acting wacky, first thing I'd check is the WAGO connection. Always best to solder and heat shrink or a well done crimp connection.
Noted. I will check it periodically to ensure everything is staying together. Thanks for the guidance (and the follow up posts on the topic (y) ).
 
Just completed the installation of my Blackvue DR750X Plus 2CH dash camera and my Uniden R8 radar detector on a Blendmount. As OEM as I can get it. Cut a notch in the bottom left of the mirror shroud and routed all wiring through the shroud and into the headliner. Came down the passenger A-pillar to the fuse panel. Rear camera was routed across the headliner with the cable secured BEHIND all airbags. All I am waiting on now are my fuse taps to tie them in for power. Very happy with how it turned out. Happy to help anyone that has interest in doing this as well. I have been installing electronics into vehicles since I was 14 years old. Happy New Year everyone!

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I reached out to them today about trying a dual unit mount...
 
Nice set up @securityguy
I have the Rove R3 and have my rear camera in the same spot. All the wiring is covered and ran down the bottom under the carpet and next to the doors, so no air bag issues. The front camera is mounted almost identical to yours and the wiring is tucked in the windshield pillar and down to the passenger side fuse panel for the "sentinel" parking mode.

As far as the wire connections, I use heat shrink crimps and then wrap tape around the connectors and then a longer piece of marine grade heat shrink tubing to cover both crimps and then wrapped in wire loom when possible. Never had a connection fail.

Thanks for the detailed info 👍
 
Just completed the installation of my Blackvue DR750X Plus 2CH dash camera and my Uniden R8 radar detector on a Blendmount. As OEM as I can get it. Cut a notch in the bottom left of the mirror shroud and routed all wiring through the shroud and into the headliner. Came down the passenger A-pillar to the fuse panel. Rear camera was routed across the headliner with the cable secured BEHIND all airbags. All I am waiting on now are my fuse taps to tie them in for power. Very happy with how it turned out. Happy to help anyone that has interest in doing this as well. I have been installing electronics into vehicles since I was 14 years old. Happy New Year everyone!

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Very nice, i am doing the same on my 26 3500 gasser, i ordered a harness for my uniden r8, but where did you pull for the cameras, i have a dual camera set up as well, and wondering how to hide those wires.
 
Very nice, i am doing the same on my 26 3500 gasser, i ordered a harness for my uniden r8, but where did you pull for the cameras, i have a dual camera set up as well, and wondering how to hide those wires.
I'll send you a PM and include my cell phone so we can chat on the phone. Easier than typing a ton.
 
I'm installing a one today in my '26 ZR2 later today. Removed it from my 1500 '25 Trail Boss before trading in for the 2500 ZR2. Mine requires a second power with ignition ON as well as the constant power. I also used F8 for constant power for the window and used F26 10A (Seq/USB Charge) for Ignition On. Same on the 2500 as was on the 1500.
When I stripped it off the 1500, I had to leave the ignition On tap since I also used that circuit to install and auto dim mirror (that did not come on my TB LT).
They are easy to install from the camera assembly to the power hook ups to the rear camera.
I actually helped out a few people (and cops) when I filmed two accidents and naturally, the ones who caused the accidents insisted it was the other persons; that is until the officer viewed the film.
 
Tell that to the RV industry, lol. They use them every where. btw im not disagreeing with you. RVs use to use crimp nuts. Its all WAGOs now. AC and DC connections. So in theory they should be fine. RVs mostly work 😅

Just a crimp connection is best for high vibration stuff. Solder connection can break at the edge of the solder. Generally not recommended in automotive. Atleast that's what they say. I still solder all the wiring connections on my utility trailers 🤷
Not in my 25 Keystone. Just did some extensive wiring to add USB plugs, new trailer to truck cable and not one wego seen. For me standard crimp connectors and a Klein crimping tool.
 
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