Dash Cam and Radar Detector Installation

securityguy

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Just completed the installation of my Blackvue DR750X Plus 2CH dash camera and my Uniden R8 radar detector on a Blendmount. As OEM as I can get it. Cut a notch in the bottom left of the mirror shroud and routed all wiring through the shroud and into the headliner. Came down the passenger A-pillar to the fuse panel. Rear camera was routed across the headliner with the cable secured BEHIND all airbags. All I am waiting on now are my fuse taps to tie them in for power. Very happy with how it turned out. Happy to help anyone that has interest in doing this as well. I have been installing electronics into vehicles since I was 14 years old. Happy New Year everyone!

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Nice, I have a Vantrue N4 in mine. I put my rear camera almost in the same spot.

The Vantrue is a nice dash cam. I installed one in my brothers car and it's been bullet proof. I am partial to Blackvue...they have the best app on the market and the cameras are top rated. How did you mount your front camera?
 
The Vantrue is a nice dash cam. I installed one in my brothers car and it's been bullet proof. I am partial to Blackvue...they have the best app on the market and the cameras are top rated. How did you mount your front camera?
I had a Vantrue N2 in my last truck for a few years. It seemed to work well, so I just went with a newer model from them this time. Always thought a rear facing camera made as much sense as a front facing. I've had stuff happen behind me as much as infront of me , lol
I mounted mine beside my mirror. Same spot as the other truck. Works well and gives the in cab camera a good view, but is out of my view when driving. I don't think I have any pictures really. Here is one at the bank lol. You can kind of see it. Wire is ran under the headliner and down the a piller like yours. Mine is wired to constant power and my camera records 24/7. It is set for park mode and my screen cuts off after 30 seconds after I crank the truck
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Very nice. What fuse did you tap into on the passengers side?
I'd actually have to look. It's been a few months. It was on the lower right from what I remember. It doesn't pull much power, I think it was fused at maybe 3 amps. Constant power source is easy in that panel. Keyed power there is only the USB fuse for the charging points. I wanted mine to record while parked though.
My old truck it was connected to keyed power so I didn't have the ability to use park mode. With the rear facing camera, I really wanted it recording when parked since I carry tools in the bed and pull trailers regularly. we also go kayaking some. So we leave the truck at ramps and bridges. Basically acts like a surveillance camera when away from the truck. The draw on the battery hasn't been noticeable, but my truck doesn't normally sit more then a day or two at a time.
 
@8ball_99, the Blackvue has the power management software built into it so it has a built-in Parking Mode option. You can set the minimum battery voltage as well as the length of time the camera will run for. Please check what fuse number you used when you have a free moment for the constant 12V. Thanks again for your help and conversation!
 
@8ball_99, the Blackvue has the power management software built into it so it has a built-in Parking Mode option. You can set the minimum battery voltage as well as the length of time the camera will run for. Please check what fuse number you used when you have a free moment for the constant 12V. Thanks again for your help and conversation!
Np, mine is on F8-15a-LF window switch. I remembered after looking at it. I used it because there is unused slots around it so the fuse tap doesn't cover anything. With it being a 15 amp circuit and just for power windows I figured it was a safe bet. Been hooked up that way for a few months with no problems.

Mine also has the voltage cut off, but it hasn't been needed so far. I think as long as you drive ever few days, the power draw isn't a problem. When I installed it I was worried about it and considered adding a lithium power pack, but I don't think it's an issue.
 
Np, mine is on F8-15a-LF window switch. I remembered after looking at it. I used it because there is unused slots around it so the fuse tap doesn't cover anything. With it being a 15 amp circuit and just for power windows I figured it was a safe bet. Been hooked up that way for a few months with no problems.

Mine also has the voltage cut off, but it hasn't been needed so far. I think as long as you drive ever few days, the power draw isn't a problem. When I installed it I was worried about it and considered adding a lithium power pack, but I don't think it's an issue.
Great...thanks!
 
Np, mine is on F8-15a-LF window switch. I remembered after looking at it. I used it because there is unused slots around it so the fuse tap doesn't cover anything. With it being a 15 amp circuit and just for power windows I figured it was a safe bet. Been hooked up that way for a few months with no problems.

Mine also has the voltage cut off, but it hasn't been needed so far. I think as long as you drive ever few days, the power draw isn't a problem. When I installed it I was worried about it and considered adding a lithium power pack, but I don't think it's an issue.
So, the window circuit on F8 is a constant battery supply? I would have thought it would shut down after the truck goes to "sleep"?
 
Has anyone found a video on routing wires from the fuse panel up to the mirror for a dashcam on the refresh trucks? I'm wondering if there's a tear apart video.

Also would like to get from the front camera to the back window - so how to route via the headliner to the back.
 
Has anyone found a video on routing wires from the fuse panel up to the mirror for a dashcam on the refresh trucks? I'm wondering if there's a tear apart video.

Also would like to get from the front camera to the back window - so how to route via the headliner to the back.
I am happy to talk you through it over the phone if you want to PM me. My pics started this post and I have been professionally installing electronics in cars for over 35 years.
 
I have a Gen5 harness as well for my V1, but from my understanding the 12v leads on there are switched, so it won't allow the dashcam to use park mode which would require constant power, so I think I need to run a wire to the fuse panel, correct?
Yes...do not use this on a dash cam!
 
Looks like a great option for someone like me who doesn’t feel like wiring up and I’ll only be using a V1 no dash cam. I’ll be ordering one.

Does the plastic around the mirror come off easily?
Just be careful if you have On-Star as these devices can create issues with On-Star...sometimes they state that on their site.
 

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